Big Bend National Park

The No-Camping Guide to Experiencing the Best of Big Bend and Terlingua, Texas

Big Bend National Park is a wildly surreal desert landscape in Southwest Texas, named after the curve of the Rio Grande River that borders the United States and Mexico. Despite its size (~ 8,000 acres), it draws the least number of visitors of any National Park due to its extreme remote location.

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I had been dreaming of a visit to Big Bend for years and really had no excuse given it is just a 7-hour drive from where I live in Austin. Now, having been, I can vouch that it is a very special place for so many reasons. Historical significance, unique geological features, diverse wildlife, and a tightly-knit community of locals, make this area one to add to your bucket list.

The closest town to Big Bend is Terlingua. Perhaps you’ve heard about its infamous chili cook-offs? While there is camping inside the park, most visitors base themselves in Terlingua, which has a few interesting attractions of its own.

Above photos: Terlingua, Big Bend, and the points in between

If you are a hard-core non-camper, like me, this post is the perfect guide to a somewhat bougie visit to Big Bend. If roughing it is more your thing, there is still some good stuff in this for you — just not any info related to camping or RV hookups.

When is the best time to visit?

The best time to visit Big Bend is late-Fall or early-Spring. The summer months are absolutely not the time to go unless you can tolerate the heat and are diligent about hydration. The winter months are do-able, but unpredictable. There can be snowfall at higher elevations and overnight freezing temperatures. For some, these are perfect conditions for long hikes.

We made our trek to Big Bend in late-October and had perfect weather for our light hiking and other activities. There was just a little chill in the air at night – perfect for star gazing and sitting around a fire.

Do you need a car?

Yes. Big Bend is remote and there is no public transportation or Uber. You will absolutely need a car, and depending on your plans, you may need a 4×4 with high clearance. We drove our SUV from Austin, but rented a Jeep Wrangler while we were there so we could access some trail heads down unmaintained dirt roads.

• Where to stay
• Top things to do
• Where to eat
• Essential info and packing tips

Where to stay in Terlingua

There are numerous accommodation options in Terlingua, but not any resort hotels. If you prefer that level of stay, I recommend the Lajitas Golf Resort, which is a 25-minute drive west from the Maverick Junction park entrance.

Most of the accommodations are smaller, independent properties with free-standing casitas, glamping domes, lodges, and house rentals. Unlike a lot of tourist destinations where you just need a place to rest your head, where you choose to stay in Terlingua is a big part of the experience.

Search for accommodations on Orbitz below:

We divided our 4-night visit between two different properties due to room availability. It turned out great because we were able to experience two very different stays — one out in the middle of nowhere and the other closer to town.

Our first 2-night stay was at The Summit, which is a glamping resort with luxury caves and domes designed for star gazing. We reserved one of the domes but, honestly, I was a little unsure about it (and the shared bath house).

Our glamping dome had electricity, air conditioning, running water, and even a coffee maker. The shared bath house was just a short jot away. Each restroom and shower stall had an individual exterior door, so you never felt like you were sharing a bathroom. We were really pleasantly surprised!

Above photos: Glamping at The Summit at Big Bend

We had our own little camp fire area where we sat out to sip wine and watch the stars (more on stargazing further down in this post). The entire experience ranked up there as the best stargazing ever. So many stars!! We planned our dates to coincide with the new moon cycle so we would have the darkest sky possible and it really worked out for us.

The Summit is one of the most sought-after places to stay near Big Bend. The luxury caves book a year or more in advance. The domes are easier to reserve, but have a strict, non-refundable cancellation policy. The moral of the story: plan way ahead and commit.

Above photos: Morning (left) and Night (right) at The Summit

Check rates & availability for The Summit at Big Bend below:

Our second 2-night stay was at Willow House, which is much more central to activity meeting points and restaurants. Maverick Junction is 10-minutes east and the Terlingua Ghost Town is 5-minutes west. The bungalows at Willow House look like concrete cubes. They fit into the landscape and have a very modern-rustic vibe.

We were overjoyed to have our own bathroom and access to a very nice main guest house that included community-shared amenities, such as a large kitchen, refrigerator, and lounges. There is also a pool area and outdoor kitchen. Willow House can also accommodate groups, weddings, and other special events, if that is something you are looking for.

Being closer to town, the star gazing was not as good as our previous stay. While this property was absolutely wonderful, we were glad we had our earlier experience at The Summit.

Above photos: Willow House

Check rates & availability for Willow House below:

Top 10 Things to do in and around Big Bend National Park

• Terlingua Ghost Town
• Backcountry ATV Tour
• Horseback Riding
• Hiking
• Chisos Basin
• Jeep Tour
• Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
• Santa Elena Canyon River Trip
• Star Gazing
• Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico

Terlingua Ghost Town

In the early 1900s, a Texas pioneer by the name of Frederico Villalba discovered an outcrop of cinnabar, a mineral that produces mercury. He and his partners amassed large tracts of land and established a mining business, attracting new residents. The community thrived until the mines became depleted and prices fell after World War II. Eventually, the population dwindled leaving the area with its “ghost town” status.

Thankfully, developers saw more potential in Terlingua and its neighboring town of Study Butte as gateways to Big Bend National Park. Many of the old building structures were revitalized as a way to preserve their history, as well as to support tourism to the area.

Above photos: Starlight Theatre (left) and Terlingua Jail (right), Terlingua Ghost Town

A visit to the Terlingua Ghost Town is a must-see for all visitors to Big Bend. Key landmarks are the Trading Post, Starlight Theater (now a restaurant), Jail, and Cemetery. The Trading Post is housed in the old company store of the Chisos Mining Company and can best be described as a mash up of a souvenir shop and showcase of local arts & crafts. Its worth stopping in to see the eclectic mix of items that authentically represent the region.

Above photos: Terlingua Trading Post

The Terlingua Cemetery is another super interesting stop. For one, the graves are really primitive. Because the ground is quite rocky, many graves are above ground under a pile of stones with homemade wooden crosses.

Another observation was the presence of candle jars, coins, and other tokens left at the graves, perhaps by descendants who are still in the area. You’ll never visit another cemetery quite like this one. It is straight out of an old Western movie and perfectly reflects the character of the area. Terlingua Cemetery is listed on the National Register for Historic Sites.

Above photos: Terlingua Cemetery

Backcountry ATV Tours

A great way to see some of the backcountry and ranch lands is to book an ATV tour. There is only so much you can see from the highway or with a regular car. Hidden behind rock formations and ridges, there is a whole landscape of geological treasures and secluded homesteads accessible only by rugged dirt roads.

Our 3-hour guided ATV tour with Far Flung Outdoor Center took us through private lands surrounding the Christmas Mountains. We were absolutely filthy by the end of it, but it was well worth it. Besides being such a fun activity, we learned so much about the Chihuahuan Desert from our guide, Chris. It makes such a difference to explore with someone who is so knowledgeable about the area and can point out interesting features that would otherwise be missed.

Above photos: Christmas Mountains ATV Tour

Horseback Riding

There is something special about exploring this area the way it was seen by the early pioneers — on horseback. Once again, there is only so much you can see from the paved road, and the horses can take you into areas where cars can’t. There are several different types of horseback riding tours available ranging from short trail rides to multi-day camping excursions. If you are looking to really disconnect from civilization for a few days, this would be a great way to do it!

Above photo: Trail ride with Big Bend Stables

There are a few different outfitters in the area that provide guided horseback rides, but the most popular ones are Lajitas Stables and Big Bend Stables. Lajitas Stables offers tours for both beginners and advanced riders, with several adventurous excursions across the desert. Big Bend Stables offers mostly shorter trail rides for relaxed, family-friendly experiences.

We scheduled our tour at Big Bend Stables because Lajitas Stables was fully booked. Let that be a subtle suggestion to make reservations in advance to avoid disappointment. It ended up working out for the best because 2-hours in the saddle was sufficient for us, especially after having been on an ATV for 3 hours earlier in the day.

Above photos: Trail ride with Big Bend Stables

Hiking

Like most of our national park lands, Big Bend has fantastic hiking opportunities. Fun fact: Big Bend is the largest area of roadless public lands in Texas. Hikers can choose from trails that follow the Rio Grande River, scale the Chisos Mountains, and the explore Chihuahuan Desert. There are around 150 miles of trails at various levels of difficulty ranging from low-key interpretive nature walks to multi-day backpacking excursions.

The National Park Service website (and the app) provides a complete list of the hiking trails, along with current conditions and closures. Additionally, there are four Visitors’ Centers in the park. The Panther Junction and Chisos Basin Visitors’ Centers are the conveniently located near the most popular trails. All of them provide free trail maps and are staffed with park rangers who can answer questions.

If you are having trouble deciding, perhaps choose one or two trails from each category (desert, river, and mountains). The trails we enjoyed the most were:

• Sam Nail Ranch – very short trail off the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive that leads through an old homestead
• Santa Elena Canyon Trail – just under 2 miles round trip that leads into the mouth of stunning Santa Elena Canyon
• Lost Mine Trail – about 5 miles and pretty steep that leads to views of views of Casa Grande, Juniper Canyon, and Pine Canyon

Above photos: Sam Nail Ranch (left); Santa Elena Canyon (right)

Chisos Basin

The Chisos Basin is one of the highlights of Big Bend. As soon as you start driving down Basin Junction Road, the landscape changes from the desert to a green oasis full of grasses, trees, and wildlife, making it a great area to camp (if that’s your thing). It is also the location of the only hotel within the park, the Chisos Mountain Lodge.

Note: The Chisos Mountain Lodge is undergoing renovation works, but they are accepting bookings for select time periods. Check their website for current availability.

The Chisos Basin is great for hiking and bird watching, in particular. Over 300 species of birds have been identified in the basin woodlands. It is important to be aware of the presence of black bears in this area, as well, if you plan on doing any hiking.

The best hikes from the basin are:

• Window Trail
• Loop Trail
• Boot Canyon Trail
• Emory Peak
• South Rim
• Lost Mine Trail

Emory Peak and South Rim are often highlighted as the best in the park, but they are extremely strenuous and challenging in both distance and elevation gain. For a more moderate hike in the Chisos Basin, I would recommend the Window Trail and/or Lost Mine Trail. If you are just looking for a place to catch the sunset, try the Window View Trail, which is an easy 0.3-mile round trip path.

Above photos: Chisos Basin, Big Bend National Park

Jeep Tour

I cannot stress enough how rugged the landscape is in Southwest Texas. The state highways and main roads within the park are paved and a-okay for any vehicle. However, some trail heads and backcountry areas require a high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle.

Above photo: Rio Grande Overlook

If you do not have your own pickup truck or 4×4 vehicle, you may want to consider a Jeep rental for part of your visit. Alternatively, let an experienced guide take you out to enjoy the terrain. Jeep tours range from family-friendly sightseeing to full-on immersive journeys.

We went the route of a Jeep rental for our adventurous day in the park because (1) I didn’t want to risk messing up the suspension or tires on my own car and (2) We wanted to be able to go wherever the day and dirt roads led us.

Above photos: Big Bend Jeep rental

Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive

Ross Maxwell was the first superintendent of Big Bend National Park. He was a well-educated geologist who helped with the surveying of the region in the 1940s when it had no paved roads, no electricity, and the no phone service. He knew the area incredibly well and designed the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to showcase his favorite geological features on the west side of park.

Above photos: Mule Ears (left); Sotol Vista Overlook (right)

This is a fantastic drive! Be prepared for stops all along the way. You’ll want to get out of your vehicle for some short hikes, scenic viewpoints, and photo ops. If you’ve ever been to Great Smoky Mountain National Park, this is akin to Newfound Gap Road in that there are so many great stops along the way. Depending on how many hikes you do, you can spend quite a bit of time getting from Maverick Drive down to the Santa Elena Canyon.

Note: If you don’t want to re-trace your route back to Maverick Drive, you can take Old Maverick Road back up to the Gaging Station. I don’t recommend it though unless you have the right vehicle and are prepared. It’s pretty treacherous.

Our favorite stops along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive were

• Sam Nail Ranch
• Homer Wilson Ranch
• Sotol Vista Overlook
• Mule Ears
• Tuff Canyon
• Santa Elena Canyon Overlook
• Santa Elena Canyon Trail

Above photo: Homer Wilson Ranch

Santa Elena Canyon River Trip

One of the stand-out, most beautiful features within Big Bend is the Santa Elena Canyon. The Rio Grande River flows between 1500-ft towering canyon walls with Mexico on one side and the US on the other. You can view the canyon from the trail, or you can paddle it on a river trip. I recommend doing both!

Above photos: Santa Elena Canyon river trip

The pre-requisite for paddling a canoe or kayak up/down the river is water. Unfortunately, the water levels are often too low for this activity, but you can best your chances for good conditions by visiting between September and April. If you book a river trip and the conditions end up not being good, your outfitter will likely take you down a different section of the river.

We booked an all-day river trip with Far Flung Outdoor Center. It involved a 30-minute drive to the access beach, paddling our 2-person canoe up-river, lunch, and then paddling back. Paddling is not hard at all, even the up-river part, because the current is very calm. It was an amazing experience, but it wasn’t “all-day.” We were out of the canyon before 2 pm. I honestly wished we had gone a little further, but it was still one of my favorite experiences in Big Bend.

Above photos: Santa Elena Canyon River Trip

Stargazing

Big Bend and Terlingua are part of the Big Bend International Dark Sky Reserve, the world’s largest certified dark sky reserve. This means that light pollution is kept at a minimum allowing visitors to view celestial bodies like no other place. I was truly taken aback by the number of stars in the sky.

The best stargazing is anywhere away from other sources of light and, ideally, on a moonless night. We timed our plans to align with the new moon cycle for this exact reason.

Big Bend’s ranger programs offer a variety of stargazing interpretive programs that range from moonlight walks to viewing parties. At the very least, bring your own pair of binoculars so you can see a little better. I’m no astro-photo expert, but just mounting my camera on a tripod and slowing down my shutter speed produced the photos below.

Above photos: Stargazing

Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico

If you want to check another country off your bucket list, you can cross the Rio Grand River via row boat to Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico, a small border town with a population around 200. Visitors can walk the village, stop for lunch at one of the restaurants (Jose Falcons & Boquillas Restaurant), and shop for Mexican handicrafts.

You will need a valid passport book or passport card to cross at the park’s Boquillas Crossing Port of Entry. The hours for border crossing are limited (typically Friday through Monday, 9:00 am through 4:00 pm), so you’ll need to keep an eye on the clock — or end up spending the night in Mexico. More information can be found here.

Of all the things listed in this post, this is the only thing we didn’t do — mostly because we’ve been to Mexico many times before and didn’t want to take time away from other activities. If you’ve never been, it is a fun opportunity to eat authentic Mexican food and tour the nearby attractions.

Where to eat in Terlingua

Most of the restaurants near Big Bend are just outside the park in Terlingua. There are a couple small convenience stores inside the park at the Chisos Basin Visitors Center and Castolon, in case you need quick refreshments. Otherwise, your main meals will likely be in Study Butte, Terlingua, or Lajitas.

We researched our options and made plans ahead of our trip, but switched things up a little bit after scoping things out in person and getting advice from locals. If you are visiting during the off-season, it is entirely possible that some places will be closed. Most places don’t take reservations either, which speaks to the vibe and pace of life in these parts.

My suggestions for lunch are sparse because we packed trail picnics and/or were provided lunch as part of a tour. There are other places to eat lunch in addition to what I’ve listed below, but hopefully you’ll be out picnicking like we did!

Best for coffee, pastries, and quick bites:

• Venga: 45 Kempf Rd, Terlingua, TX 79852 | Website | Open 7 am – 5 pm
• Espresso Y Poco Mas: 45 Milagro Way, Terlingua, TX 79852 | Open 7:30 am – 2 pm

Best for lunch:

• El Gordo’s Grill (food truck by Wright Hardware): 53564 TX-118, Terlingua, TX 79852 | Open 8 am – 9 pm
• DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ: 10 Terlingua Ghost Town, Terlingua, TX 79852 | Website | Open 11 am – 9 pm

Best for dinner:

• High Sierra Bar & Grill: 100 Ghost Town Rd, Terlingua, TX 79852 | Website | Open 12 pm – 12 am
• Tivo’s Place Restaurant: 23323 FM170, Terlingua, TX 79852 | Opens at 5 pm
• Taqueria el Milagro: 210 Ivey Rd, Terlingua, TX 79852 | Open 3 pm – 9 pm
• Starlight Theater: 631 Ivey Rd, Terlingua, TX 79852 | Website | Open 5 pm – 12 am
• Long Draw Pizza: 22720 FM170, Terlingua, TX 79852 | Website | Open 4 pm – 9 pm

Above photos: Taqueria el Milagro (left and center); Espresso y Poco Mas (right)

Above photos: El Gordo Grill (left); High Sierra Bar & Grill (right)

Essential info and packing tips

Thank you for reading my post! Please feel free to add friendly comments or questions below!