New Orleans

A Guide to Exploring the Heart of New Orleans: History, Jazz, and Beignets

New Orleans, Louisiana is a city with multiple personalities depending on the time of year and neighborhood. If you’ve spent any time exploring The Big Easy, you know exactly what I mean. It is hard to get bored or find an angle that doesn’t suit your interests. It really does offer something for everyone, but it is probably most well-known for its Mardi Gras celebration and Bourbon Street bar scene.

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I had a very full weekend itinerary, even though I’m long past my bar-hopping days, which reinforces my point that New Orleans has so much more to offer. A long weekend is the perfect length of time to get acquainted with New Orleans. With an extra day or two, you can also venture out to visit a plantation or join an airboat swamp tour.

Above photos: Culture and heritage in New Orleans

In this post, I’ll list the top things to see and do, and how to organize your plans to make the most of your time – hopefully without melting from the humidity. You can’t escape it, but you can aim to visit when it is less sweltering, i.e., during the spring or late autumn. I was there most recently during a quiet little lull in the spring between the crowds of Mardi Gras and Spring Break. The timing was perfect!

Laissez les bons temps rouler!

• Where to stay
• Top things to do
• Where to eat
• Shopping
• Getting around

Where to stay in New Orleans

New Orleans has a surprising number of historic property hotels and B&B’s, which I recommend 100%. I’m usually a fan of staying at a historic property anyway, just because it adds so much to the travel experience and full immersion in the local culture. You’ll be spoilt for choice here even if you decide to go with one of the major hotel chains, because they all have properties that occupy a former centuries-old space.

Additionally, I recommend staying near Canal Street, the main artery that divides the French Quarter with the Warehouse and Garden Districts. This area is within walking distance of the major attractions in the central downtown neighborhoods. And, if you decide to booze it up on Bourbon Street, you won’t have to go far to stagger back to your bed.

I’ve personally stayed at a couple of properties in New Orleans and had very different experiences. My first stay was at One11, a luxury French Quarter hotel located on the Mississippi Riverfront. This hotel is ideal for luxury travelers and families who would like a higher level of service and great proximity to the Audubon Aquarium.

Check rates & availability for One11 below:

My most recent stay was at the Q&C Hotel and Bar, a Marriott Autograph Collection hotel built in 1913 as the headquarters for the Queen & Crescent Railroad. Many of the rooms feature exposed brick walls and original wood floors, along with railroad theme decor. The industrial-rustic-boutique vibe is ideal for a bachelor party, but I enjoyed it all the same.

Above photos: Q&C Hotel and Bar, Autograph Collection

Check rates & availability for Q&C Hotel and Bar, Autograph Collection below:

Top things to do in New Orleans

City Park of New Orleans

As far as city parks go, the City Park of New Orleans is among the best I’ve ever visited. I was truly impressed by the variety of attractions and things to do. One could very easily spend an entire day here.

If you are visiting during February or early March, you may be lucky enough to catch the tulips in bloom on the banks of Big Lake near the New Orleans Museum of Art. They usually start to pop in mid-February and last for about 10 days. It is a short window of time, but if you miss them, the azaleas are not far behind.

Above photos: City Park of New Orleans

The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden is part of the Museum of Art and both are totally free to enter. The walking path is stroller-friendly and very peaceful. I went through an entrance near the museum and exited near Langles Bridge, conveniently located by Cafe du Monde.

A couple other park highlights include the Carousel Gardens Amusement Park and the New Orleans Botanical Garden.

A detailed park map can be downloaded and viewed here.

Above photos: Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden

Longue Vue House & Gardens

Longue Vue is the early 20th-century family estate of Edith and Edgar Stern. Unlike many of the other historic homes in the area (most of which are private residences), you can actually tour the inside of Longue Vue and see the rooms and original furnishings the way the family left them.

Above photo: Longue Vue House & Gardens

Above photos: Longue Vue House Tour

Guests can freely wander the 8 acres of Longue Vue’s gardens, designed by famed landscape architect Ellen Biddle Shipman. She ran an all-female firm in NYC during a time when the field was dominated by men. She met her new clients at a garden club, which eventually led to her commission at Longue Vue and the creation of one of the most important garden estates of the 20th century.

Adult tickets for the Longue Vue House & Garden tour are $27 (click here), or free for GoCity Pass holders.

Above photos: Longue Vue Self-Guided Garden Tour

Steamboat Natchez

The Steamboat Natchez is the only remaining authentic steamboat still operating and cruising the Mississippi River. It was built in the mid-1970s, but with an engine and a steam whistle from the 1920s. Thankfully, the hull is not that old;)

One of the best things to do in New Orleans is to take a daytime sightseeing cruise or an evening jazz dinner cruise on the Steamboat Natchez or the new City of New Orleans Riverboat and experience the mighty Mississippi River in timeless, iconic style. There are a variety of cruises offered daily aboard each of the vessels.

If you don’t have time for a cruise (or if you are prone to motion sickness), you can still see the boat from the French Quarter Riverwalk that leads to the Steamboat Natchez Port and Goldring Woldenberg Riverfront Park.

Live Jazz

New Orleans is the birthplace of jazz, and the two are inseparable. It would be impossible to come to New Orleans and not encounter the cultural references to jazz music — or to hear it for that matter. Street performers draw crowds all over the French Quarter, providing the soundtrack to the entire neighborhood.

To hear more formal jazz performances, head over to Preservation Hall or one of the clubs on Frenchman Street (e.g., The Spotted Cat, Three Muses, or DBA). There is always a spot to see it live. Or, consider a guided walking tour with a local expert for an immersive experience of the history and heritage of jazz in the city.

Above photos: Live jazz street performers

Audubon Aquarium

The Audubon Aquarium in New Orleans is among the most notable aquariums in the United States. A couple of its stand-out features are the massive Amazon and Gulf of America exhibits. In recent years, it underwent a huge renovation project to merge with the Audubon Insectarium next door and the Audubon Zoo in City Park, which are now all under the umbrella of Audubon Nature Institute.

The Audubon Aquarium is a great place to come on a rainy day or to escape the heat and humidity. It is especially family-friendly and makes a great outing for kids of all ages. My favorite exhibit was the penguins:)

If you plan on visiting any of the Audubon attractions, you may want to consider visiting all three of them because the combo ticket is pretty good deal.

For more information and online advance tickets for the Aboretum Aquarium, click here.

Above photos: Aquarium

French Quarter

Probably the most famous part of New Orleans is the French Quarter, the historic heart of the city characterized by colorful homes, wrought-iron balconies, and a busy nightlife scene. A walking tour is mandatory for all first-time visitors.

Above photos: French Quarter

The best way to start your day in the French Quarter is by stopping for breakfast at one of NOLA’s famous cafes, such as Cafe Beignet or Cafe du Monde. If the line for beignets is long, come back later in the day. There are plenty of other coffee shops and breakfast places to choose from.

Highlights in the French Quarter include:

• St. Louis Cemetery No. 1
• Carousel Bar at Hotel Monteleone on Royal Street
• Bourbon Street
• Jackson Square
• St. Louis Cathedral
• 1850 House Museum
• French Market
• French Quarter Riverwalk

The first attraction on my list was St. Louis Cemetery No, 1, the oldest extant cemetery in the City of New Orleans, dating to 1879. The cemetery is full of beautiful funerary monuments, mysterious lore, and fascinating history.

Due to the fragility of the gravesites, the cemetery is only accessible via certified tour guides. There are multiple guided tours daily, but you must pre-book. I recommend a morning time slot because the cemetery is a few blocks away from most of the other attractions, and you can economize your time by starting at the farthest point and working your way back through the Quarter.

For more information and online advance tickets for the St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 official walking tour, click here.

Above photos: St. Louis Cemetery No, 1

The French Quarter is best explored on foot, wandering through the quiet residential streets and the not-so-quiet Royal Street and Bourbon Street. Royal Street was my favorite street for antique shops and restaurants, such as the Carousel Bar at Hotel Monteleone.

Above photos: Carousel Bar at Hotel Monteleone, Royal Street

Of course, most visitors want to see Bourbon Street, even if you don’t plan on partaking in the debauchery. It is pretty mild during the day, but comes roaring to life at night. Contrary to popular belief, the name does not refer to American whiskey, but to the House of Bourbon, France’s ruling royal family in 1721. Btw, visitors can legally walk with alcohol in public, provided it is in a plastic container or cup rather than glass. Hence, frozen daiquiris are popular on hot, summer days.

Above photos: Bourbon Street

Another not-to-miss area in the French Quarter is Jackson Square, formerly the Place d’Armes, known for its pivotal role in the Louisiana Purchase. This historic park is surrounded by some of the best attractions in the city, including the 1850 House Museum and St. Louis Cathedral.

The 1850 House Museum is an antebellum townhouse and part of the larger Lower Pontalba Building. It is set up and furnished as it would have looked in the mid-nineteenth century, helping visitors imagine what day-to-day life was like at the time.

Adult tickets for the 1850 House Museum are $8 (click here), or free for GoCity Pass holders.

Above photos: Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral (left); 1850 House Museum (right)

After you’ve admired majestic circa-1700s St. Louis Cathedral from the outside, be sure to take a walk through the inside, as well. Officially named The Cathedral-Basilica of St. Louis King of France, it is the oldest cathedral in continuous use in the United States. The ceiling features breathtaking 19th-century murals painted by Erasme Humbrect in 1872,

Another rather interesting feature is the soundboard over the pulpit. It was used for amplification of the speaker’s voice before electricity and microphones. The shell design is a Christian symbol (often used in baptism), but it is also very fitting for the coastal location of the city.

Above photos: St. Louis Cathedral

On the opposite side of Jackson Square is the French Market, home of the original Cafe du Monde. I would say this is a “must see,” but it is always crowded. If you don’t want to wait for a table, there is a take-away window that moves a little faster.

To wrap up your time in the French Quarter, don’t miss the view from the Washington Artillery Park, which is an elevated platform overlooking Jackson Square and French Market. Then, cross the train tracks to The Moonwalk Riverfront Park for views of the Mississippi River and the Port of Steamboat Natchez. This is a wonderful place to take a rest and catch the cool breezes off the water.

Above photos: Cafe du Monde French Market

Above photo: The Moonwalk Riverfront Park & Riverwalk

Depending on how much time you spend meandering and visiting each of the attractions in the French Quarter, you will want to allocate at least half a day to this neighborhood alone, especially if you decide to break for lunch or stop to watch street performers. In fact, some people come to NOLA and never leave the French Quarter — which is understandable if you are short on time.

Garden District

While the French Quarter is the more lively and popular area for visitors to New Orleans, the Garden District is an overlooked, quieter neighborhood with grand historic mansions and arguably better shopping. Truth be told, I preferred it.

I spent an entire afternoon on a self-guided walking tour of the historic houses, followed by a stroll and shopping on Magazine Street. I mapped out a route that took me past some of the most notable homes, but didn’t cover everything.

Most of the historic houses have a landmark plaque on the iron fencing in front of the home so you can read an overview of the history and significance. However, if you are curious to know more, there is a wonderful book published by the New Orleans Garden District Association available on Amazon (click here)

I recommend starting at the corner of Magazine Street and Washington Avenue. From there, walk towards Lafayette Cemetery No. 1. The City of New Orleans closed Lafayette Cemetery in 2019, so you can no longer walk past the gates — not even on a tour. I was able to catch a glimpse inside from the gates, though.

If you time it right, you might want to stop for lunch at Commander’s Palace, which has been serving Creole food since 1880. Keep in mind, the restaurant is popular and usually requires a reservation.

Above photos: Lafayette Cemetery (left and center); Commander’s Palace Restaurant (right)

My route took me down Coliseum Street to Jackson Avenue, with a couple of short diversions down Third and First Streets. Then I turned the block and walked down Chestnut Street to First Street. Then, First Street back to Magazine Street. It can be confusing to look at the actual addresses because many of them are corner lots and may *technically* be on a side street.

It is pretty easy to enjoy yourself following Google Maps or even just winging it. If you’d prefer a guided tour with a local, I recommend this highly rated tour.

Click here to view my Google Maps walking route of the Garden District.

Above photos: Russel A. Plessy, Jr. Master Brick Mansion (left); Walter Grinnan Robinson Mansion (center); iron work at John Goodman – Joseph Merrick Jones House (right)

Above photos: Rodenberg Lane Gundlach House (left); Brown Cunningham House (right)

Air Boat Swamp Tour

The air boat swamp tour is one of the best group tours I’ve ever experienced. This is a true close-up wildlife encounter that is extremely safe and so educational. I highly recommend!! The operator we went with was Ragin Cajun Air Boat Tours. They have various tour offerings, including one that will pick you up at your hotel in New Orleans in case you don’t have a car to drive out to the meeting point.

Our tour guide, Captain Randy, was hilarious! He made the whole tour so enjoyable. His knowledge and familiarity with the area was clearly demonstrated – he even had names for the alligators and knew where they hung out. This is a great tour for families with kids over the age of 5.

I did not take my expensive camera with me on the tour for practical reasons. So, unfortunately, I don’t have any photos. But, trust me, it was great!

Plantations

If you have an extra day to spare, there are a few plantations within an hour’s drive to the west of New Orleans. The plantation tours offer a rare glimpse into life during the pre-Civil War years. It is thoroughly educational and sobering to learn how the plantations operated and the harsh reality of enslaved individuals.

Destrehan Plantation is an antebellum mansion and plantation previously used for the production of indigo and sugarcane. Tours include interactive demonstrations from costumed guides and educational exhibits. If you are coming from a Ragin Cajun Air Boat Tour, it is about a 20 minute drive. Otherwise, it will take about 40 minutes from the French Quarter.

Whitney Plantation is another antebellum sugar plantation with a strong focus on the history of slavery from the perspective of the enslaved. It is a solemn memorial and authentic experience devoid of the romanticism of the South. There are both guided and unguided tours, as well as transportation options from New Orleans.

Oak Alley Plantation is the farthest away, but well worth the visit if you have time or are en route to Interstate 10. It is just over an hour from central NOLA. Oak Alley is extremely scenic and photogenic, with 28 ancient oaks that will leave you speechless. Come early to enjoy the “Big House” and sprawling gardens without the crowds.

What to eat in New Orleans

It is no secret that New Orleans is a hot spot for celebrity chefs and regional cuisines that make it easy to narrow down your dining goals.

• Beignets
• Creole & Cajun
• Seafood
• Fried Chicken

Let’s start with the obvious — beignets. These little pillows of goodness are best described as donuts, but they are made from slightly different dough before being fried and doused in powdered sugar. They are best enjoyed alongside a chicory coffee or latte. If the lines at the most famous beignet cafes, Cafe Beignet and Cafe du Monde, are too long, try coming back later in the afternoon. They are freshly made all day, so you are assured the same delicious experience regardless. Both Cafe Beignet and Cafe du Monde have multiple locations.

Above photos: Cafe Beignet (left and center); Beignets at Cafe du Monde (right)

You also will not want to miss the opportunity to stuff yourself silly with Creole and Cajun food. Cajun is a bit rustic (think one-pot meals) and includes popular dishes such as brown gumbo, jambalaya, crawfish étouffée, red beans and rice, and boudin. Creole is similar, but usually has a lighter profile and tomato base, such as red gumbo, tomato-based jambalaya, shrimp Creole, oysters Rockefeller, and po’boys. You won’t be tested on the difference. Just dive in.

For a good intro and sampling of a variety of Creole and Cajun food, consider the jazz lunch buffet at The Court of Two Sisters. This French Quarter historic building dates to 1832. They offer a daily brunch with live jazz. If you make reservations, you can request to sit outside under a 180-year-old wisteria vine.

Above photos: The Court of Two Sisters Jazz Lunch

Another popular Creole brunch buffet is Commander’s Palace, a Garden District institution. During the week, they offer a 25¢ martini lunch, and on the weekends, they host their famous jazz brunch. Just be sure to make your reservations early because this place is in high demand – and for good reason.

Some other great places to try:

• Couvert: French-Southern brasserie located in the Eliza Jane Hotel
• Meril’s: Celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse’s casual restaurant in the Warehouse District

Above photos: Couvert Brasserie

New Orleans is also known for its fresh seafood, specifically shrimp, oysters, crawfish, and blue crab from the Gulf of America. The most iconic dishes gracing restaurant menus include gumbo, crawfish étouffée, BBQ shrimp, chargrilled oysters, fried seafood platters, and po’boy sandwiches. Here are a few suggestions to consider depending on what you’re most in the mood for:

• Antoine’s: Home of the original oysters Rockefeller
• Domilise’s: The best po’boys
• Acme Oyster House: Best raw bar and fried seafood platters
• Mr. Ed’s: All-around great seafood in a casual atmosphere
• GW Fins: All-around great seafood in a fine dining atmosphere

Above photos: Mr. Ed’s

Last but not least, Southern fried chicken is such a crowd pleaser, and New Orleans is known to have the best in the world. The overwhelming majority of locals will tell you that Popeye’s (yes, the chain restaurant) rivals any fancy establishment. So, if you are looking for take-away or something fast, it is a solid choice. For a more unique experience, Willie Mae’s Scotch House, located in the Tremé neighborhood, is absolutely legendary and is said to have the best fried chicken in America. If you prefer to keep to the French Quarter, Coop’s Place and Willie’s Chicken Shack get the job done nicely.

Shopping in New Orleans

Whether you are coming to NOLA for a girls’ get-away or an extended work trip, it is always nice to take something back home with you (other than dirty laundry). Both the French Quarter and Garden District are excellent for retail therapy.

My top recommendation is vintage and antique finds. You’ll see numerous places along Royal Street in the French Quarter and along Magazine Street in the Garden District. Little treasures like Limoges boxes or an antique oyster plate will fit in your suitcase and surely find a place of honor in your home.

New Orleans boasts a ton of contemporary and antique art galleries. But, the street art is also really impressive. Keep an eye out for vendors set up around Jackson Square and the French Market. You can find some great original pieces that are very affordable and support the local artist community.

Above photos: Shopping in the French Quarter – Antique oyster plates (left); Antique Limoges (center); Street art (right)

Magazine Street in the Garden District is ideal for boutique shopping. The stretch between Louisiana Avenue and Felicity Street is prime. My favorite spots were Sucré, a super Instagrammable dessert shop, and Peony, a women’s & children’s clothing boutique.

Above photos: Sucré (left); Peony (center); Unbridaled (right)

At the very least, grab a box of pralines from the Royal Praline Co or Leah’s Pralines in the French Quarter. These traditional New Orleans candies are the nuttier cousin to fudge and melt in your mouth. Sooo good!

Getting around New Orleans

If you are coming to New Orleans for a weekend of sightseeing and/or revelry, a car is not essential. Downtown New Orleans is very walkable! There are a couple options if you’d like to save your feet though.

First, there is always public transportation. Historic streetcars, buses, and ferries are $1.25 per ride. Download the Le Pass app to your phone to purchase the New Orleans RTA Jazzy Pass, which provides discounted, unlimited rides for various durations.

Alternatively, consider the hop-on-hop-off bus! These double-decker buses include a fun, onboard commentary as they make their way around the central downtown neighborhoods. You can get off at any point of interest you want to explore, and then hop back on at any other stop to keep going.

Of course, there is always Uber too! I used Uber here and there when I was tired and hot. Even though I had my car parked at the hotel, I didn’t want to fuss with parking. Uber is always a solid option.

Thank you for reading my post! Please feel free to add friendly comments or questions below!