Newport

Exploring the Gilded Age Glamour and Coastal Charm of Newport, Rhode Island

Newport, Rhode Island is fondly referred to as “America’s First Resort” due to it being a favorite summertime destination for wealthy residents coming up from the southern colonies to escape the heat as far back as the 1720s. It certainly still has a resort feel with an influx of seasonal tourists. This charming city, known for its historic mansions, yacht-filled marinas, and New England hospitality, checks all the boxes for a breezy, oceanside get-away, whether you are planning some personal downtime or a fun-filled girls weekend.

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Newport is located at the southern end of Aquidneck Island, in Narragansett Bay, about an hour and a half south of Boston Logan International Airport. The summers are pleasant and warm, albeit a little humid being right on the Atlantic coast. It is the best time to visit to experience the beaches, sailing, and outdoor dining overlooking the harbor.

Above photos: The persistent themes of Newport, Rhode Island: Bellevue Avenue (left); hydrangeas (center); sailing (right)

For years I’ve been hankering to visit to Newport, primarily to tour the mansions. But also, fresh shellfish is my favorite food group. A long weekend was the perfect length of time to conquer my “must see” list and catch a breathtaking sunrise.

• Where to stay
• Top things to do
• Where to eat
• Getting around

Where to stay in Newport

If your plans are going to be centered around the Historic Mansions and waterfront, my recommendation would be to stay somewhere central so you can easily explore most attractions by walking or taking the free trolley. There are a few attractions that require a car, regardless of where your stay. To that end, be sure your accommodations provide guest parking.

Castle Hill Inn and The Chanler are top luxury properties that are a little removed from the activity, but offer incredible ocean views and a quieter setting. For mid-range options, Hotel Viking and The Vanderbilt, are centrally located and have upscale dining.

• Check rates and availability for Castle Hill Inn
• Check rates and availability for The Chanler
• Check rates and availability for Hotel Viking
• Check rates and availability for The Vanderbilt

I booked late, but thankfully found availability at the Jailhouse Inn, a little bed-and-breakfast close to Bowen’s Wharf. The location was fantastic and I loved staying at a historic property. There are many of these independent B&B’s and inns around Newport that occupy a historic residence and tend to be more affordable.

• Check rates and availability for Jailhouse Inn
• Search for other hotels and B&Bs

Wherever you decide to stay, get ready for some sticker shock during the peak summer months. There may be more budget-friendly options in Middletown or Portsmouth, but be aware that Newport traffic can be a nightmare and it may add some hassle driving back and forth.

Above photos: The Chanler (left), Hotel Viking (center), Jailhouse Inn (right)

Top things to see & do in Newport

Historic Mansions

Unless you are a yacht or sailboat enthusiast, the Historic Mansions of Newport are probably the top attraction fueling your wanderlust to the area. At least, that was the case for me.

These stately homes and gardens represent the pinnacle of American architecture and decorative arts from the Colonial era through the Gilded Age. Some are privately owned and lived in, and others have been preserved as house museums that can be toured by the public.

The most popular mansions to visit are operated by the Preservation Society of Newport County, including The Breakers and Marble House. If you only have time to see a couple, these are likely them. For visitors who have more time, the most cost-effective and convenient ticket is an Access Pass or an Annual Membership that provides entry into all of the Preservation Society properties.

Above photos: The Breakers back lawn (left); Marble House dining room (right)

In addition to the properties managed by the Preservation Society, there are also a handful of other historic homes that sometimes get overlooked, but are very much worth the time to visit, including Rough Point, the former home of Doris Day, Belcourt, and the Blue Garden.

Above photos: Rough Point (left); Belcourt of Newport (right)

If you want to see absolutely everything, you’ll need to plan carefully, as the homes have seasonal opening hours. During my late-August visit, I missed a couple that had already ended their tours for the season, but I was okay with that. I still managed to pack in visits to quite a few.

Click here to read my complete Guide to Visiting Newport’s Historic Gilded Age Mansions.

Above photos: The Breakers (left); Marble House (center); Belcourt (right)

Green Animals Topiary Garden

380 Corys Lane, Portsmouth | Website

Green Animals Topiary Garden is the oldest topiary garden in the United States. It is operated by the Preservation Society of Newport County and admission is included in the Access Pass. But, a couple things make it different. For one, it isn’t in Newport. It is actually located in Portsmouth, about 20-minutes north of Newport. And, of course, it isn’t a mansion like the other Preservation Society properties.

The 7-acre garden was part of a country estate and the summer retreat of Thomas E. Brayton, treasurer of the Union Cotton Manufacturing Company. The house is still there, but the garden is the main attraction. Filled with around 80 larger-than-life topiary sculptures and numerous planting beds, it is a joy to walk though.

Above photo: Green Animals Topiary Garden

Bowen’s Wharf

Bowen’s Wharf is a waterfront square anchored by a marina and lined with restaurants, shops, art galleries, and tour operators. The seaport has an interesting history dating to the 18th-century albeit it has changed from a commercial wharf to a yacht-haven. It is always busy, and especially so in the evenings and on weekends when everybody comes out to socialize, shop, and dine.

This is a great place to walk around to enjoy the atmosphere and a seafood dinner before or after heading out on a harbor cruise (more on that in a sec). Or, you can pull up a stool at one of the outdoor bars and people-watch. Also keep an eye out for the Kiel James Patrick flagship store for cozy sweaters and classic Newport fashions. The complete Bowen’s Wharf business directory can be found here.

Above photos: Bowen’s Wharf & Marina

Sunset Harbor Cruise

Newport is a mecca for all kinds of boating, from commercial fishing boats to recreational sailboats and yachts. It is actually staggering how many boats are packed into the marina. If you don’t already know someone who has offered to take you out for a sail, be sure to book a harbor cruise on one of schooners (a tall wooden, sailboat).

Above photos: Sunset Harbor Cruise

Sailing the harbor will afford you the opportunity to see Newport from the water, as well as some of the islands, lighthouses, and coastal landmarks. I took a sunset cruise on the Schooner Madeline, operated by Newport Classic Cruises. It was a perfect evening and a perfect sunset! To book a harbor cruise with Newport Classic Cruises, check out the options below. Or, to book the exact same sunset cruise that I did, click here.

Lighthouses

The New England coastline is spotted with around 200 lighthouses, and Newport is no exception. It has 9 historic lighthouses, some of which are still in operation, guiding sea captains safely back home.

The easiest and most efficient means of exploring the lighthouses is by water, since some of these are not accessible by land. Coastal Queen Cruises offers a Lighthouse Cruise of Narragansett Bay with views of Castle Hill Lighthouse, Rose Island Lighthouse, and Newport Harbor Lighthouse. Otherwise, the Castle Hill Lighthouse is probably the closest and easiest to access from land.

Cliff Walk

The Cliff Walk is a 3.5 mile public walking trail that follows the eastern and southern coastline. It is an iconic Newport attraction and something you must do at least once. Although the trail can be busy during the summer months, it is still a slice of serenity. The views, crashing waves, and ocean breezes are quintessential New England coastline.

The best place to start the walk is near Easton Beach where the trail is paved and well-maintained. As you progress further south, the trail is quite rough in places. If you aren’t up for it, you can exit the trail near the Breakers and avoid the more challenging sections.

Above photos: Cliff Walk

I combined the Cliff Walk with my visit to several of the Newport mansions. If I were to do it again, I think I would just do the Cliff Walk in its entirety without trying to figure out how to exit and re-access it for each of the mansions. While you can see the mansions (both public and private) from the Cliff Walk, most of them are not easily accessible.

Another option is to start the Cliff Walk at South End at either Bellview Avenue or Ledge Road and make your way back. If you choose to do this, I would recommend parking your car near Easton Beach or the Forty Steps, and then taking the trolley, Uber, or a pedicab to the South End access point because there is absolutely no public parking.

Above photo: Cliff Walk

Ocean Drive

Ocean Drive is a 10-mile scenic drive along the perimeter of Newport, with views of mansions, beaches, rocky coastline, and the wide-open Atlantic Ocean. The prettiest section, IMHO, is the stretch between Bailey Beach and Castle Hill Inn. I’ve heard that sunrise is the best time to go, not only for the morning light coming up over the water, but also because there is hardly any traffic.

Above photos: Views from the Green Bridge (left and center); The Dink (right)

I did this drive in the afternoon, and honestly traffic wasn’t a concern. Along the way, I stopped at Gooseberry Beach, the Green Bridge, The Dink, and Brenton Point State Park. The beach had a $30 parking fee, but the rest of the places were easy roadside pull-overs.

If you are short on time or aren’t able to do the Cliff Walk, Ocean Drive is a great alternative because you can experience similar views from the comfort and convenience of your own car. That being said, I recommend doing both if you can!

Above photos: Views from Brenton Point State Park

Beaches

Newport has numerous stretches of wide, sandy beaches, which is maybe a little surprising given how rugged and rocky the coastline is in other areas. The most popular public beach is Easton Beach on the east side of Newport near the start of the Cliff Walk. Although the beach is free to walk-on, parking is not. You can expect to pay $25 per day during the week or $35 per day on weekends and holidays.

I ended up going to Gooseberry Beach on the southern tip of Newport. It is a smaller beach, and also a bit calmer. It was a great place to dip my toes in the sand and a few inches of water. I didn’t go swimming because the water was entirely too cold for this Texas girl. I guess people acclimate?

There are also some beaches on the other side of Easton Bay, not-so-creatively named Second Beach and Third Beach. The parking situation is the same, but these beaches have more of a neighborhood vibe since they are in primarily residential areas.

Above photos: Gooseberry Beach

Castle Hill Inn

590 Ocean Drive | Website

Castle Hill Inn is a five-star, luxury hotel in Newport. It is a beautiful place to stay during your visit, but it also a beautiful place to visit even if you aren’t a hotel guest. It is situated on 40-acres bordering the coastline and overlooking the East Passage of Narragansett Bay.

Castle Hill Inn is a great place to stop in before or after visiting Brenton State Park or Fort Adams close by. There are a couple dining options including Aurelia, a formal dining room, and The Lawn Terrace, a more casual venue (and also a fabulous Sunday Brunch!).

The most popular attraction at Castle Hill is the Adirondack Experience. The grassy slope leading down to the water is arranged with a slew of Adirondack chairs where you can sit back and enjoy a cocktail while watching the sailboats pass by. Chairs are available on a first-come-first-serve basis, which can get competitive just before sunset during the summer months, but totally worth it!

Above photos: Castle Hill Adirondack Experience

Fort Adams State Park

80 Fort Adams Drive | Website

Fort Adams State Park is the historic site of the coastal military fortification used by the US Army and the US Navy from 1841 through the 1960s. The parcel of land on which Fort Adams is situated has a fascinating pre-Revolutionary War history, too. It wasn’t until 1824 that construction was started on Fort Adams, which was at the time the largest coastal defense works of its kind.

If you are a history buff, you won’t want to miss a guided tour of Fort Adams (reservations are a must!). Either way, the park is a great place to bring the family for all sorts of outdoor recreation including fishing, boating, rugby, and soccer.

Fort Adams State Park is most well-known for its summer jazz concert series and folk festivals. The Newport Jazz Festival typically takes place at the end of July or early August over the course of 3 days.

Above photos: Fort Adams State Park

International Tennis Hall of Fame

194 Bellevue Avenue | Website

I nearly skipped over the opportunity to visit the International Tennis Hall of Fame because I’m just not much of a tennis person. However, the historic site of the Newport Casino piqued my curiosity and I decided to look in. Wow – so glad I did!

The buildings were originally a place for the Gilded Age elite to socialize during the summer. The casino wasn’t a gambling establishment as we think of it today. Rather it consisted of a theater, ballroom, billiards, lawn bowling, reading rooms, horse shows, dining, and yes, — tennis. The first US National Men’s Singles Championship took place here in 1881.

In the 1950s, a fire nearly destoryed the casino. Thankfully, it was saved and dedicated as a place to honor great athletes and celebrate Newport’s rich tennis history. In addition to the museum and Hall of Fame, a Tennis Club provides members with clinics, lessons, and court times. The grounds are open to the public and can be freely explored. However, there is an admission fee for the museum and exhibits.

International Tennis Hall of Fame, Newport Casino

Redwood Library and Athenaeum

50 Bellevue Avenue | Website

The Redwood Library and Athenaeum seems to be one of the most overlooked gems in Newport. It is in the same vicinity as Touro Park and the Newport Art Museum, in case those are also of interest.

The library is the oldest purpose-built library, dating to 1747, and the oldest continuously operating it its original location. There aren’t many places you can visit and experience this kind of direct link to the colonial period. The library is a mash-up of library, art gallery, study space, and museum. It surprised more than any other attraction during my visit.

Above photos: Touro Park (left); Redwood Library and Athenaeum (right)

Above photo: Redwood Library and Athenaeum

The Neoclassic building has many of its original features and materials, including the same window casings and floor boards as when Thomas Jefferson and George Washington visited in 1790. Today, several expansion rooms house the library’s collection of over 200,000 volumes, an exquisite collection of portraits, and a small children’s library.

Redwood Library and Athenaeum

Touro Synagogue

85 Touro Street | Website

The Touro Synagogue is the oldest synagogue in the United States. It was built in 1763 and is the only surviving synagogue from the colonial period. It demonstrates the commitment to religious freedom by the colony of Rhode Island.

Unfortunately, I was only able to see Touro Synagogue from the outside because visitor access was restricted. If you are able to tour the interior, the architecture and decoration is profoundly symbolic. It underwent a restoration around 2005 and remains an active Orthodox synagogue.

Above photos: Touro Synagogue

Thames Street

All visitors to Newport eventually find their way to Thames Street, the main commercial drag that runs parallel to the waterfront. The street is lined with boutique shopping, art galleries, bars, and restaurants. Thames Street is always lively and an ideal place to walk around in the evening.

Since my accommodations were close to the north end of Thames Street, I ended up coming here several times for dinner and shopping. It is definitely the heart of Newport’s vibrant social scene and full of fun things to see and do.

St. Mary’s Catholic Church

12 William Street | Website

St. Mary’s Catholic Church is a historical church built by Irish immigrants in the mid-19th-century (coinciding the the building of Fort Adams) and is the oldest Parish in the Diocese of Providence. It played an important part of the development of Newport and served as the chapel of the Naval Academy during the Civil War.

President John F. Kennedy and Jacqueline Bouvier were married here on September 12, 1953. Jackie’s family summered at Hammersmith Farm in Newport, which was later nicknamed the “Summer White House.” Newport’s connection to the Kennedy’s is still an important part of the city’s identity. Whether you are a Kennedy history buff or just have a general interest in historic places, the church can be toured on weekdays between 10 am – 2 pm.

Above photo: St. Mary’s Catholic Church

Where to eat

I ate well in Newport:) Seafood is by far my favorite cuisine, and Newport has plenty of it! During my visit, I did my best to sample a range of street food, casual pubs, and fine dining — and heavily leaned into the local dishes in all cases.

Lunch recommendations:

• Chinese Tea House at Marble House
• The Carriage House at The Elms
• The Newport Lobster Shack
• The Lawn Terrace at Castle Hill Inn

Dinner Recommendations:

• Brick Alley Pub & Restaurant
• The Mooring Seafood Kitchen
• Jo’s American Bistro
• Scales & Shells

Chinese Tea House at Marble House

596 Bellevue Avenue | Reservations

As the name suggests, the Chinese Tea House sits on the grounds at Marble House. It was built in the early 1900s and was used to host suffragette rallies, one of Alva Vanderbilt’s well-known causes. Inspiration was taken from 12th-century Song Dynasty temples, making it a unique stand-out amongst the other buildings that face the Cliff Walk.

After years and years of weathering, it was moved back from the seawall in the 1970s and later completely restored by the Preservation Society of Newport County for use as an event venue and high tea.

I timed the end of my visit at Marble House to align with tea time, and must say I really enjoyed the entire experience. The reviews for the Chinese Tea House are mixed online, but speaking from my personal experience, I loved it. Immediately after being seated on the outdoor patio overlooking the cliffs, I was offered a glass of champagne to sip on while I awaited my tea stand full of sandwiches and desserts. For anyone concerned about whether it is enough food to fill you up, it definitely is!

Above photos: Tea at the Chinese Tea House at Marble House

The Carriage House at The Elms

367 Bellvue Avenue | Reservations

The Carriage House at The Elms is a newly restored and opened cafe for Newport Mansions visitors. It is located behind the main house overlooking the meticulously maintained historic gardens and fountains. It is a wonderful, charming setting with a classy-casual vibe.

I requested outdoor seating on their umbrella-shaded terrace so I could enjoy the view on a postcard-perfect summer afternoon. The seasonal menu consisted primarily of salads and sandwiches, which was perfect for a quick, light bite before continuing on with my grand tour of the mansions.

Above photos: The Carriage House Cafe at The Elms

Newport Lobster Shack

Trailer, 150 Long Wharf Mall | Website

If you are looking for a lunch place that is away from the mansions and Bellview Avenue, and if you are a lobster fan, the Lobster Shack at the end of Long Wharf Mall is hands-down the best street food you will ever eat.

The Lobster Shack is a local fishermen’s co-op. They sell what the fishermen bring in, which sometimes also includes rock crabs, sand crabs, conch, and fish. I ordered the lobster roll and ate the entire thing. It was soooo good! In case you get home and start craving it again, the Lobster Shack ships live seafood anywhere in the continental US.

Above photos: Newport Lobster Shack

The Mooring Seafood Kitchen

1 Sayers Wharf | Website

The Mooring Seafood Kitchen is located at Sayers Wharf, right next to Bowen’s Wharf. The location is ideal if you are coming in from or heading out on a harbor sunset cruise — or just out exploring the waterfront and Thames Street. It is a highly rated and popular place, so be sure to make reservations.

I requested seating outside on the deck overlooking the marina so I could soak in the Newport sailing scene. Of course, I ordered the lobster (when in Rome…) and it was perfect. It took me a second to remember how to shell it, but I guess its like riding a bike. My only regret is not having room for dessert because the key lime pie looked amazing.

Above photos: The Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar

Brick Alley Pub

140 Thames Street | Website

The Brick Alley Pub & Restaurant is an iconic Newport institution. For one, they’ve been around for 40 years and in that time have managed to secure some impressive accolades, such as the Best Lobster Roll in America. The bar and restaurant menus are all about comfort foods and classics.

What made this place memorable for me was the floor-to-ceiling vintage decor and uniquely Rhode Island trinkets. I tried the lobster roll here, as well, and it was really different from the one at the Lobster Shack. The point being, if you’ve had one, you haven’t had them all.

Above photos: Brick Alley Pub & Restaurant

Jo’s American Bistro

24 Memorial Blvd W | Website

For a classier (but not pretentious) night out, Jo’s American Bistro has a carefully sourced menu featuring steaks, seafood, and all-American classics. The wood paneled walls and warm ambiance felt very home-y, and their wait staff was so incredibly friendly and attentive.

This is a great place to come with friends or family for a special celebration. I had a mixed greens salad and the seared scallops – and serving sizes were a lot to power through. It was a very memorable meal not only because the food was so lovely, but also because it was the only time it rained while I was in Newport. I was grateful to be able to sit at my table and linger over a glass of wine while I waited out the weather.

Above photos: Jo’s American Bistro

Scales & Shells

527 Thames Street | Website

I chose Scales & Shells for dinner on my last evening in Newport on a recommendation from another blog I had read. More seafood! This place was very chill. Daily specials were written on an oversized chalkboard and an open kitchen allowed us to watch the all the action.

I ordered the spicy seafood linguine, as a slight change from the straight-up, unadulterated seafood I had been eating all weekend. Another Man-vs.-Food portion size that I could not polish off, but it was delicious. The raw bar and seasonal cocktail menu here is also impressive. Being my last night, I held off, but the temptation was there.

Above photos: Scales & Shells

Getting around Newport

Newport is a very walkable small city. However, to get out to the beaches, explore Ocean Drive, or other neighborhoods on Aquidneck Island, you’ll need transportation. It is best to have your own car or rental vehicle.

That being said, driving in the main downtown area and finding parking can be more hassle than it is worth. So, once your parked at your accommodations, you can go from there via other options.

First, Newport’s public transit bus system has multiple route that can take you all over Aquidneck Island. Additionally, they offer free service during the summer months (May thru October) to all the mansions. Complete schedule information, PDF route maps, and fares can be found on the RIPTA website.

Another fun option is to take a Newport Pedicab for either point-to-point transportation or a full tour. I hired a pedicab to haul me from the south end of the Cliff Walk back up to Marble House and it saved me. Be sure to plug their phone number (401-432-5498) into your contact list before your trip just in case you don’t see one of these guys pedaling around.

I also used Uber a few times while in Newport as a time saver. Truly, I enjoyed walking the most, but in a time crunch — or when your feet have had enough — the ride share apps are helpful to have downloaded and ready to go.

If you need any help planning your trip or booking travel arrangements, please feel free to Contact Me!

Thank you for reading my post! Please feel free to add friendly comments or questions below!