Painswick

Visiting the Historic Town of Painswick, “The Queen of the Cotswolds”

Painswick is one of the numerous villages in the Cotswolds that grew out of the wool cloth trade. It is often overlooked by tourists for no apparent reason except perhaps its slightly out-of-the-way location on the northwest side of the region. That, for me, is all the more reason to add it to a road trip itinerary.

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Known especially for its parish church’s yew trees, Painswick has been dubbed “The Queen of the Cotswolds” due to its well-preserved architecture and authentic, charming atmosphere. The decline of the cloth weaving industry and mills left many old buildings un-replaced by new construction, much to our enjoyment today. The ancient center of the village was primarily built with cream and charcoal colored limestone cut from local quarries, a standout differentiator from the honey colored stone used just about everywhere else in the Cotswolds.

Above photo: St. Mary’s Parish Church

Of all the places we visited during our time in the region, Painswick was a bit of a surprise. The streets of the village had posted signs with loads of information and historical insights, which we really didn’t see in other places. We also stumbled upon a thriving artist community and friendly locals, weaving the past and present together.

We arrived in Painswick late in the morning on an overcast Spring day after visiting Newark Park and Coaley Peak and stayed as long as we could. Keep reading to learn more about our time here and the top things you don’t want to miss during your visit.

• Top things to do in Painswick
• Other nearby points of interest

Top things to do in Painswick

St. Mary’s Parish Church

St. Mary’s Parish Church has one of the most memorable churchyards in England. Beautifully carved funerary monuments and “altar tombs” lie nestled amongst 99 yew trees, the earliest of which were planted before 1779. The trees, which symbolize rebirth, are also surrounded by a bit of lore. It has been said that the Devil would never let a 100th yew tree to thrive.

At the end of the churchyard, the half-timbered Lych Gate is a relative newcomer, constructed in 1901 with wood salvaged from the belfry. This entry point marks the division between consecrated and unconsecrated ground. It was an important part of funeral processions where pallbearers would wait with the coffin to allow clergymen to lead the way into the cemetery.

Above photo: St. Mary’s Parish Churchyard (left); the Lych Gate (right)

The church has stood in this location since Saxon times around 1086, although the current building was started in 1377. The north side of the tower, which has the clock face, still bears damage from bullets and cannons shot during England’s Civil War.

Above photos: St. Mary’s Parish Church tower and spire

Inside, St. Peter’s Chapel and the North Aisle are the oldest parts of the church still standing. The central nave and tower with its fourteen bells were built between 1480 – 1490. And, the chancel and sanctuary were built in 1546.

Above photos: St. Mary’s Parish Church

The pews are lined with around 300 kneelers that were hand-embroidered by 60 local residents in the 1980s. Each design is unique, with themes of music, animals, nature, and Bible stories.

Another interesting feature in the church is a model of the ‘Bonaventure’ ship captained by Sir Francis Drake when he fought against the Spanish Armada in 1588. I was curious about the connection, and later found out that Painswick has often be symbolically presented as a ship in troubled seas.

Above photos: Embroidered kneeler cushions (left); ‘Bonaventure’ model ship

Painswick Heritage Trail

The center of Painswick is criss-crossed with narrow streets that you can freely wander and/or follow the Painswick Heritage Trail. The trail is a suggested walking route with posted informational signs describing the history of the area, early photos, and key landmarks. You can download the map in advance or just wing it when you arrive. The map is provided by the Painswick Local History Society.

Old Stocks

After visiting the church, we started our walk at the Old Stocks on St. Mary’s Street, opposite the Court Cottage. These rare, 19th-century stocks are close to the ground and easy to miss if you don’t walk around the stone wall of the churchyard. They are called spectacle stocks because, well, they resemble a pair of eyeglasses.

Above photos: Old Stocks (left); Court Cottage (right)

Bisley Street

Bisley Street is the oldest street in Painswick. It was originally laid out in the early 14th-century to connect the towns of Bisley and Gloucester.

The Painswick Centre is located at the corner of Bisley Street and Vicarage Street. Although it isn’t as old as some of the other buildings, it has been the community center of Painswick since the early 1900s. Inside, you will find an arts cafe, artist studios, and community workshops. Also, a farmers’ Morning Market takes place every Thursday morning in the car park.

The houses on the right side of Bisley Street were burgages (i.e., rental properties owned by the Lord). The Chur dates to the 13th-century and features an ancient, studded “donkey door” where donkeys or packhorses would bring in wool from the mills to be stored in the sheds at the rear of the burgages.

Don’t miss Handmade In Painswick a couple doors down from The Little Fleece hotel. This small shop sells all kinds of locally made gifts and art. It is the perfect place to pickup a souvenir to take back home with you!

Above photos: The Chur (left); Cottage (right)

Above photo: The corner of Bisley Street and New Street

New Street

New Street dates from 1429. So, its not really new, albeit newer than Bisley Street. It is lined with more historic homes, some of which are Tudor. The half-timbered Post Office and its next door neighbor, The Beehive, are late 15th-century builds.

Another detail not to be missed is the sundial on the Nutgrove House. The sundial probably dates to the 18th-century and was likely an add-on after the house was built. Once upon a time, sundials were used to calculate solar time and were the standard. The Nutgrove House sundial is an accurate scientific instrument that still functions and can be used to set your watch.

Above photos: The Beehive (left); The Post Office (center); Nutgrove House (right)

Gloucester Street

If you have time, Gloucester Street is another street worth exploring. Christ Church Congregational Chapel is on the right about 250 feet from the intersection. It closed its doors as a place of worship, but now houses the Museum of the Arts & Crafts Movement. If you aren’t up for walking Gloucester Street, you may end up driving down it anyway en route to Painswick Rococo Garden.

Victoria Square

Victoria Square is clearly defined by the Community Library on one side and the War Memorial opposite. The library is housed in the early 19th-century Town Hall building that replaced the former Stockhouse, which included a workhouse, blindhouse and freeschool.

The War Memorial was placed in 1921. It was designed by Arts & Crafts architect Frederick Landseer Maur Griggs and lists the name of the fallen from both World War I and II.

Above photos: Town Hall (left and center); War Memorial (right)

Adjacent to Victoria Square on New Street, the Beacon House is a perfectly symmetrical Palladian mansion built around 1766 for local clothiers, the Wood-Mason family. I also couldn’t help notice the Dynevor House next door, reputedly built for Lord Dynevor, with its bright turquoise door and stately pediment.

Just off the square on New Street stands the historic Falcon Inn, a beautiful Georgian townhouse with 11 bespoke rooms for visitors. The inn was built in 1554, and later re-built in 1711 by the Jerningham family, who were the Lords of the Manor. Behind the inn there is a bowling green that claims to the the oldest in the country. If you plan on staying the night in Painswick, this is a great choice. Not only are the rooms full of character, but the on-site dining features locally sourced, seasonal dishes and wines from the Balfour Winery in Kent.

Above photos: Dynevor House (left); The Falcon (right)

Painswick Rococo Garden

Painswick Rococo Garden is the only surviving, complete Rococo Garden in the UK. It was originally designed and built in the 1740s by wealthy landowner, Benjamin Hyett. It was more or less forgotten about as the flamboyance of rococo ornamentation when out of style. Thankfully, Benjamin had asked for the garden to be painted by Thomas Robins prior to its deterioration. It was this painting that was used as a reference guide to restore the garden to its former glory in the 1980s by the new owners of Painswick House.

Today, Painswick Rococo Garden is open to the public to enjoy. It is on the Historic England Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic Interest. The Painswick Rococo Garden Trust looks after the garden and continues to plant and nurture this lovely place. Online advance bookings can be made here.

Above photos: Painswick Rococo Garden

Other nearby points of interest

We arrived in Painswick from the South, which afforded us stops at Newark Park (National Trust) and Coaley Peak on our way. Coaley Peak is roughly 9 miles (less than 20-minutes) from Painswick. If you are up for a nice walk, you can also reach the Uley Longbarrow from Coaley Peak. Woodchester Park (National Trust) and Woodchester Mansion are also nearby, although we did not make it to these two.

Above photo: Coaley Peak

The Painswick Beacon is to the north of Painswick. It is home to an Iron Age hill fort, also referred to as Kimsbury Camp. It offers magnicifent panoramic views to Wales and the Severn Estuary from the top. This attraction is often combined with Pope’s Wood. Lots of peace and quiet!

• Newark Park
• Uley Longbarrow
• Coaley Peak
• Woodcester Park
• Woodchester Mansion
• Painswick Beacon

National Trust Landmarks

There are National Trust properties scattered throughout the Cotswolds (and all of England) that can easily fit in a driving itinerary. We stopped to see as many of these as possible!

If you are a UK resident, the National Trust annual membership is such a great deal. If you are a US resident, the Royal Oak annual membership will provide the same benefits as the National Trust, and also includes other historic properties in the United States. Purchase well in advance so your membership materials arrive prior to your departure.

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