Alcobaça Monastery

One Perfect Day Visiting Alcobaça Monastery in Portugal

In central Portugal, three UNESCO World Heritage sites — the Convent of Christ, Monastery of Batalha, and Monastery of Alcobaça — define a monastic triangle that together from a popular tourist route, formally known as the World Heritage Portuguese Monasteries. We visited all three and can whole heartedly recommend the road trip.

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Above photos: Convent of Christ (left); Batalha Monastery (center); Alcobaça Monastery (right)

Alcobaça was the last town we visited on this route before heading further west to Mafra and Sintra. I’m so pleased that we decided to spend the night here before rushing off. It was a perfect mix of medieval history and small town charm.

If you are headed to Alcobaça yourself, or just interested in learning more about this historic place, this post will provide a re-cap of our visit, as well as some practical travel tips.

• Where we stayed in Alcobaça
• Alcobaça Monastery
• Shopping & dining in Alcobaça

Where we stayed in Alcobaça

A visit to all three monasteries can probably be achieved in one (very long) day. And, if that is all you have, then so be it. However, if you are able to slow things down and spend a little more time in each area, there is so much more to soak up.

We booked our overnight stay at the Montebelo Mosteiro De Alcobaça Historic Hotel, which is the south wing the monastery that has been converted into a 5-star luxury hotel property. This section of the monastery complex housed the College of Our Lady of the Conception and the abbots of the Autonomous Congregation. The back side of the hotel overlooks the Rachadouro Cloister, also known as the Library Cloister.

Above photos: Montebelo Mosteiro De Alcobaça Historic Hotel

Obviously, there is a big convenience factor when staying at the monastery. But, it was also pretty cool to stay in a place steeped in so much history — even though I highly doubt our experience was anything like that of the Cistercian monks who settled the region in the 12th century.

What I loved most about the Mosteiro Hotel were the wide hallways and architectural elements that are still present and truly evoke that of its original purpose. I also loved the Library Hall. The library was one of the largest Portuguese libraries, but nothing remains there today. After it was overtaken by the French, the contents were largely stolen or destroyed. What was recovered is now held by the National Library in Lisbon.

Above photos: The Library Hall, Alcobaça Monastery, Montebelo Mosteiro De Alcobaça Historic Hotel

Check rates & availability for the Montebelo Mosteiro De Alcobaça Historic Hotel below:

Alcobaça Monastery

Alcobaça Monastery, also known as Royal Monastery of Santa Maria de Alcobaça, was established in 1153. It was the first totally Gothic structure in Portugal and also the first associated with the Cistercian Order of monks. Part of the king’s strategy in establishing the monastery was to colonize the countryside recently claimed from the Moors. Situating Saint Bernard and the Cistercian monks there was a way to exert his authority in the region.

Above photos: Alcobaça Monastery

The monastery continued to have strong ties to the monarchy over the course of about 700 years. Because of this, it also became one of richest and most influential, developing agriculture and trade in the area. The monastery was eventually dissolved after suffering loss and ruin by the French during the Napoleonic Wars.

When we arrived in Alcobaça, we parked in the hotel parking lot and went everywhere from there on foot. The town is very compact and walkable. It was basically just a walk around the block to enter into the monastery.

There are two “sides” of the monastery — the church and the monastary rooms. The church is free to enter and is often where visitors start their tour. The monastery rooms are ticketed and have a 15 € entry fee. We started with the monastery rooms first and saved the church for the second half of our visit.

Above photos: Front facade of Alcobaça Monastery (left); Ticket office and entrance to monastery rooms (right)

Cloister of D. Afonso VI

We entered the monastery at the ticket office, to the left of the main church entrance. So, the first thing we saw was the Cloister of D. Afonso VI, also known as the Inn Cloister — and not to be confused with the Cloister of D. Dinis. There are five different cloisters within the monastery. When someone mentions the cloister, usually they are referring to the Cloister of D. Dinis. I’m so glad I thought to snap a photo of the model at the entrance because it helped me figure some things out later on.

Above photos: Cloister of D. Afonso VI, The Inn Cloister (left); Model of Alcobaça Monastery (right)

Cloister of D. Dinis

From the Cloister of D. Afonso VI, we moved into the Cloister of D. Dinis, also known as the Silent Cloister, a late 13th-century addition ordered by King Dinis. The cloister was further embellished with a second story during the reign of Manuel I. The elaborate Manueline Gothic architecture and formal garden is the centerpiece of the monastery due to the other rooms that open up to it.

Above photo: Cloister of D. Dinis, The Silent Cloister

The Fountain Hall within the cloister features an early Renaissance water basin that was used for hand washing and personal hygiene by the monks. Exactly how the monks were able to divert water from springs and rivers to have continuously running, clean water seems like an impressive feat of hydraulic engineering for the times.

Above photos: The Fountain Hall in D. Dinis Cloister

In the middle of the cloister there is a chapel in honor of the Virgin Mary, corresponding to a long tradition in Cistercian monasteries. She is the central figure in Cistercian imagery.

Above photos: Chapel of the Virgin Mary in D. Dinis Cloister

Refectory

The Refectory, aka the dining room, is an impressive room with vaulted ceilings and columns that was used for communal dining. Interestingly, there is a pulpit here that was used for the reading of the Bible during meals.

Above photos: Refectory

Kitchen

The kitchen of the monastery is a late-addition and replacement of the original medieval kitchen. This new kitchen, conveniently located next to the Refectory, is a surprising change from the other rooms. It is nearly covered in glazed tiles, including the center floor-to-rooftop chimney. You can actually stoop underneath the chimney opening and look up to the sky:)

The other really interesting features in this space are the water basins. These were used to hold water and fish brought in from a canal system fed by the Alcoa river. It all feels very modern and sophisticated for an 18th-century space.

Above photos: Photographing the kitchen (top and left); Looking straight up the chimney (right)

Above photos: Water basin in the kitchen

Monks’ Room & Dormitory

The Monk’s Room is on the other side of the kitchen. It was initially used as accommodation for novices who had not yet been integrated into the works of the professed monks. After the Novices Dormitory was complete, this space became a workroom and a living room for the monks.

Above photo: Monks’ Room

The Dormitory is located directly above the Monks’ Room. Initially, only the abbot was allowed to have his own room. That changed later, and the room was divided into cells. Then, it was changed back during renovations in the early 20th century. I thought the little staircase leading to the Door of the Monks was clever. It provided direct access to the church for services.

During the 16th- and 17th-centuries, another cloister was built which housed the new monks’ dormitory consisting of individual rooms. Hence, the original dormitory was transformed for other purposes.

Above photo: Dormitory

Above photo: The Door of the Monks, connecting the Dormitory to the Church

The Novices Cloister

The Novices Cloister, also known as the Cardinal’s Cloister, wasn’t added until the early 17th-century. It was intended to house the novitiate and the new Monks’ Dormitory, complete with individual rooms. It is named after Cardinal Henrique, who later became King Henrique. The Novices Cloister is not open, but can be viewed from the balcony of the dormitory.

Above photos: Novices Cloister, The Cardinal’s Cloister

The Chapter House

The Chapter House was the main room where the monks assembled, presided over by the abbot, to decide on various life and administrative issues — kind of like a business board room. It is also where the abbots were interred after they died. The room is full of statues. If you look closely at the floor and walls, you can see inscriptions memorializing those that were buried here.

Above photos: The Chapter House

The Hall of the Kings

The Hall of the Kings, Sala dos Reis, is a converted chapel that holds the surviving terracotta clay sculptures that were created by the monks. Among them is a depiction of the coronation of D. Afonso Henriques by Pope Alexander III and St. Bernard of Clairvaux.

Above photo: The Hall of Kings

The walls of the Hall of Kings are covered in painted tiles with scenes telling the history of the monastery. This room is such a treasure because most of the monastery is void of art. The panels in this room really bring the story to life.

Above photos: The Hall of Kings

The Hall of Conclusions

The Hall of Conclusions, Sala das Conclusões, previously held the statues of the Portuguese kings that were created by the monks. The statues were moved to the current Hall of the Kings between 1765 and 1769. Later, the Hall of Conclusions was used as a finance office. 

This room is currently being utilized as a gift shop. It is worth walking through regardless of any souvenirs you may want to pick up in order to see the gorgeous ceiling.

Above photos: The Hall of Conclusions

The Church

The Monastery Church embodies the austere philosophy and spirituality of the Cistercian Order. The central nave is close to 100 meters in length and is remarkably simple. However, height of the nave at over 20 meters and the massive ribbed columns evoke awe-inspiring splendor.

Above photos: The Monastery Church Nave (left); Rosette window (right)

Above photo: The Chancel from the Transept

The Chancel with the High Altar is surrounded by a wide Ambulatory with two 16th-century Manueline portals and nine chapels embellished with wooden carvings.

Above photos: Chancel

Above photos: Ambulatory

The transept of the church holds the exquisite tombs of King Pedro I and Inés de Castro. The Crown Prince Pedro was deeply in love with Inés, a Galician noblewoman. However, King Afonso IV did not approve and had her executed in Coimbra. Later, when Pedro became king, he ordered her remains to be transferred to Alcobaça and crowned queen. They now lie at opposite ends of the transept, their love story forever remembered . Sadly, the tombs were damaged during the attacks by the French.

Above photos: Tombs of King Pedro I and Inés de Castro

The Death of St. Bernard Altarpiece is located in the south transept, flanked by the tombs of Kings Afonso II and Afonso III. The altarpiece is another work by the 17th-century Alcobaça monks.

Above photos: The Death of St. Bernard Altarpiece

Royal Pantheon

The Royal Pantheon is located directly in front of the Death of St. Bernard Altarpiece. Here, there are eight other tombs including that of D. Beatriz, wife of D. Afonso III, and three of his children. Another sarcophagus belongs to D. Urraca, the first wife of D. Afonso II. 

Originally, the tombs were placed in the galilee, the outside porch area that once stood by the entrance to the church. They were later moved to the south transept in the 18th century.

Above photos: Royal Pantheon

New Sacristy

The New Sacristy is accessible from behind the Ambulatory of the church. Much to our disappointment the New Sacristy and Reliquary Chapel, also known as the Chapel of Relics, were closed off to visitors behind massive vault doors without explanation. The doors and Manueline-style portal were stunning though! I took a photo through the keyhole for a glimpse of what was on the other side. Although this area would have been wonderful to see, it was a re-build, having been destroyed by the 1755 earthquake. So, I don’t feel we missed out on any of the medieval structure.

Above photos: New Sacristy Manueline Portal (top and left); Floor plan (right)

Shopping and dining in Alcobaça

Once we were done with all of our church-ing, we spent the rest of our afternoon exploring the town of Alcobaça. The monastery and business area is separated by a small plaza. Most of the shops are located along Praça 25 de Abril, the main street that runs directly in front of the monastery.

There a quite a few cafes and bars here with outdoor seating that cater to the daily tourist crowds. My husband made himself comfortable at one of them while I continued to wander in-and-out of the boutiques. The best things to buy in Alcobaça are chintz fabric, pottery, and Alcobaça ginjinha (cherry liqueur).

Above photos: Shopping in Alcobaça

After a quick change, we headed out to dinner at Michelin-listed Restaurante António Padeiro. This homey little restaurant is located down a cobblestone side street in the cutest pink building. The interiors are a bit rustic, but still refined. It was one of the best – and yet most unpretentious – meals we had in Portugal. Save room for dessert!

Above photos: Restaurante António Padeiro

Tours to Alcobaça Monastery

Above photos: Praça 25 de Abril (left); Monastery Church bell tower (right)

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