Quebec at Christmas Part 1

A Holiday Quebec City Break in a Winter Wonderland

I grew up in a northern town and miss it most during the holidays due to the fact that I live in warm climate now (our seasons consist of February and Summer). Getting away to a place that is reminiscent of those bygone times and is appropriately chilly usually fixes me up in the Christmas mood.

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Quebec, Canada is a place that does exactly that. It overflows with holiday cheer and has masses of charm to spare. We decided to plan our visit for early December because (1) the kids were still away at school and (2) we found a “lull” before the peak Christmas travel fares.

There were pros and cons to our timing. Pros were: We were there for the Christmas Market and all of the lights and decorations. Cons were: The ice slide and other outdoor snowy activities weren’t open yet.

Our itinerary included three full days, excluding our travel days on each end. It was sufficient – but of course, we still want to go back someday!

One of the biggest reasons why we loved Quebec so much was because we chose to stay at the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac on the Gold Level. This hotel is a prominent silhouette along the St. Lawrence River and is at the heart of the Old City. There is so much to see and do within easy walking distance. And, the hotel itself is a beautiful resort.

Arrival Day: Petit-Champlain Christmas Lights and Dinner

We arrived at the hotel around 5 o’clock in the evening, already dark. Although the night was young, we really just wanted stroll the quiet streets of Petit-Champlain and have a relaxing dinner. We made our way down the Frontenac Stairs right outside of the hotel to the cobblestone streets of the Old Town. We had time before and after dinner to wander, take photos, and see all the shops we wanted to come back to the next day.

Our dinner reservations were at Chez Muffy, a farm-to-table restaurant located in a historic warehouse at the Auberge Saint-Antoine. The restaurant was so cozy chic and rustic. We absolutely loved it. LOVED IT! Food = amazing. Service = amazing. Atmosphere = amazing. Definitely started things out on the right foot by choosing this gem for our first meal in Quebec.

Above photos: Petit-Champlain

Day 1: Terrasse Dufferin, Quartier Petit Champlain, Ferry to Levis, Marche du Noelle

The following morning, we were up early and ready to brave the cold. But, first, breakfast. The Gold Level at the the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac provided an amazing breakfast spread that was included in our room rate. So, while I am usually just a coffee person, who can resist? As we sat and enjoyed our breakfast, we had a Santa-view of the snowy rooftops of Quebec.

Above photo: The snowy rooftop of Fairmont Le Château Frontenac

Overnight, a dusting of snow had fallen making it feel even more like Christmas (yet, it wasn’t enough to dissuade us from venturing out). Our first stop was right outside our hotel door, the Terrasse Dufferin. This Victorian boardwalk is so charming and offers an overlook of the streets below, as well as views out to the St. Lawrence River.

Terrasse Dufferin and the St. Lawrence River

Above photo: Funiculaire between Petit-Champlain and Terrasse Dufferin

To get down to Petit-Champlain you have the option of taking the Frontenac Stairs or the Funiculaire. We took the stairs down and the Funiculaire up.

Once down the stairs, we turned right onto Côte de la Montagne and then turned right again to take another short set of stairs called Escalier Casse-Cou (Breakneck Steps). These steps were built in 1635 and are the oldest in Quebec. They are steep, but you probably won’t break your neck! The name refers back to when they were a narrower, steeper, wooden staircase. They have since been re-built and are perfectly manageable:) This is where you can see down the full length of Rue du Petit Champlain. It is every bit as charming and perfect as it looks in photographs.

Above photos: Petit-Champlain

Most of the shops had not yet opened and there were just a few people walking around – the perfect opportunity to take photos. We made our way down to the waterfront ferry terminal to catch the boat over to Levis. You can get off the ferry on the other side of the river and explore the area, but there isn’t much to entertain. We really just wanted to take in the view of Quebec from the river. It was fun! I really recommend doing this!

Above photo: Ferry across the St. Lawrence River to Levis

Following our ferry ride, we headed back to Petit-Champlain to resume our merriment and a bit of shopping. We picked up a bunch of stocking stuffers for the kids at La Petite Cabane à Sucre and got ourselves a couple bottles of ice wine. I also picked up some super cute Amimoc moccasins at Boutique Martino.

There are more boutiques off of Rue Dalhousie and Côte de la Montagne. I couldn’t resist wandering in and out of them, picking up a few knits and fur accessories to take back home. The art galleries on the side streets are incredible! The one thing I regret about our trip to Quebec is not coming home with one of the large-scale paintings that grace the walls of the galleries featuring local artists.

Above photo: Petit-Champlain

Besides shopping, there are other points-of-interest to stop and see, such as the Musée de la Civilisation, Quebec City Mural, Place Royale, Place de Paris, Royal Battery, and Parc de l’UNESCO. We didn’t follow a strict itinterary – we just wandered and ended up seeing everything on our list.

Above photo: Quebec City Mural

Somewhere in the mix, we stopped for lunch at Le Lapin Sauté. It is a super cozy little restaurant that serves French food. I was glad we had made reservations because it was packed.

Above photo: Funiculaire between Petit-Champlain and Terrasse Dufferin

By this time, our arms were lined with shopping bags and we needed to make a drop. So, we took the Funiculaire up to the terrace and to our hotel room. We had covered a lot of ground, but there was still plenty of daylight left. We decided to head out once more and have a walk-about Upper Town and the Marche de Noelle.

I’ve never met a Christmas Market I didn’t like, including Allemand de Quebec. This adorable market was set up in the plaza in front of the City Hall and included rows and rows of vendors selling gifts, decorations, and food. The atmosphere was festive and lively. We strolled through the wooden stalls and alley ways with warm drinks in our hands, loving every minute of it.

Above photos: Allemand de Quebec

Our final stop of the day was the Notre-Dame de Québec Basilica-Cathedral. It was absolutely breathtaking and a chance for us to warm up a bit! It is the oldest church in Canada and was the first church in Canada to be elevated to the rank of minor basilica. The stained glass windows are beautiful, as are the altar and ceiling facade.