Rhinelander

A Visitor’s Guide to Rhinelander, Wisconsin in the Heart of the Northwoods

Wisconsin’s Northwoods are perhaps the best kept secret of the midwest, and Rhinelander is at the very heart. Never heard of it? As I was saying, perhaps the best kept secret. The folks here are living better than anyone on the planet. Life is defined by friendly faces, family businesses, a penchant for the outdoors, and an abundance of fresh air. Rhinelander also has incredible wildlife viewing, well-stocked lakes, and colorful fall foliage that rivals any New England town.

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Above photo: The Wisconsin River

Above photos: Autumn in Rhinelander

My roots are in Rhinelander. My parents, their parents, and every aunt, uncle, and cousin — they are all cheese heads. Even though I grew up in Pittsburgh, I spent nearly every summer of my youth in Rhinelander and listened to the re-telling of a thousand stories in between. So, of course, whenever I start to feel a little disconnected from “my people,” this is where I want to be.

Whether you have a personal connection to the area or not, it is a wonderful travel destination. You won’t run into a lot of other tourists. Instead, an authentic northern town vibe and outdoor adventures offer the opportunity to escape the noise and crowds.

Above photos: Rhinelander, Wisconsin

When you are ready to embark on your own Northwoods retreat, this post is your reference guide to some of the best things to see and do during your visit.

• Where to stay
• Top 10 things to see & do
• Where to eat
• Other links & travel ideas

Where to stay in Rhinelander

There are just a handful of small chain hotels in Rhinelander to choose from. They are perfectly fine, but if you are coming for more than a couple days, I would recommend staying at a Vrbo property. There are a lot of family vacation homes in the area that are rented out to visitors. While you might feel inclined to stay in town, the best places are actually out on the lakes and rivers, completely immersed in nature. Holiday Acres Resort is also a long-time family favorite.

My aunt (who was my travel companion on this trip) and I stayed in a charming bungalow on the Wisconsin River. Every morning, we took our coffees down to the dock and watched the light come up over the trees. Aside from the occasional pontoon boat passing by, there was hardly another soul in sight. It was basically the same scene in the evening, except for the squirrel happy hour at the neighbor’s house (never seen so many squirrels in one place!).

Above photos: Our bungalow river views

Top 10 things to do in Rhinelander

Let’s just get one thing out of the way. The top draw to Rhinelander is the hunting and fishing. Unfortunately, I’m not going to be much help in that area. However, Mel’s Trading Post is a good place to start for gear and recommendations. There are also many independent guide services and outfitters in the area that are easy enough to find with a Google search. With that being acknowledged, let’s get to everything else that you won’t want to miss during your visit.

• Rhinelander Chamber of Commerce
• Rhinelander Riverwalk
• Oneida County Courthouse
• Historic Churches
• Pioneer Park Historical Complex
• John Heisman’s Grave
• Hodag Dome
• Hodag Store
• Boating on the Wisconsin River
• Parks & Natural Areas

Rhinelander Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center

450 West Kemp Street | Website

The Rhinelander Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center is a great first-stop on any Rhinelander itinerary for obvious reasons. You can request travel information on activities, attractions, and area events. Another reason you’ll want to add this stop to your list is to see the infamous Hodag standing larger-than-life in front of the Visitor Center.

The Hodag is a mythical creature and the symbol of Rhinelander. Stories of the beast date back to at least the late-1800s and are strongly tied to the logging and lumberjack trade. All over town, you will spot painted statues of the Hodag, but the bigggest and best of them all is located in front of the Rhinelander Chamber of Commerce.

Above photos: Rhinelander Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center

Rhinelander Riverwalk

450 West Kemp Street | Website

Located just beyond the parking area for the Visitor Center, you will find the trailhead for the Rhinelander Riverwalk. There is a paved path lined with huge boulders that transitions into a dirt footpath. The footpath descends to a very scenic boardwalk area that follows a short section of the Wisconsin River near the Davenport Bridge. We had the entire trail to ourselves while we were here. The whole thing is less than a mile and really quite easy. It is a great place to come for some pretty photos or to start off a longer morning walk around downtown.

Above photos: Rhinelander Riverwalk

Oneida County Courthouse

1 South Oneida Avenue | Website

The Oneida County Courthouse is the centerpiece of downtown Rhinelander and a historic gem. There is not a resident in town that doesn’t beam with pride when talking about their beloved landmark. The courthouse is a Neo-Classical structure built in 1908. It features an octagonal, Tiffany-style stained-glass dome that illuminates from the inside. The dome is actually two layers – a green exterior and the mutli-colored stained glass interior.

Above photos: Oneida County Courthouse

The courthouse is open to the public on weekdays from 8:00 am – 4:30 pm. There is no fee to enter and follow the self-guided tour. In addition to the glass dome, there are many other features to be admired, such as the iron and marble staircase, artwork, taxidermy, and other architectural fixtures.

Above photo: Oneida County Courthouse

Historic Churches

When Rhinelander started to grow from a frontier outpost to a logging camp, it attracted a lot of Swedish, Norwegian, and Dutch settlers who brought with them their Lutheran faith. Because of language differences, separate churches were established for the Swedish and the Norwegian-Dutch. Both of these congregations still exist today. The Swedish Church, now called Immanuel Luthern Church, is located on the corner of Brown Street and Timber Drive. The Norwegian-Dutch Church, called Trinity Evangelical Luthern Church, is located on the corner of Phillip and Stevens Street.

Above photos: Trinity Evangelical Luthern Church

Around the same timeframe, St. Mary’s Parish, now called Nativity of Our Lord Catholic Church, was built to serve the area’s Catholic families. The current building is the third built by the congregation due to losing the previous two to fire. The mosaic behind the altar is an abstract design of a lily. Although, as my aunt told me, when it was first assembled in the 1960s, no one knew what it was because the priest who had ordered it from Germany passed away prior to its installation. It is a beautiful piece of art comprised of round pieces of tesserae and 18k gold leaf that change appearance as you move around the sanctuary.

Above photos: Nativity of Our Lord Catholic Church

Pioneer Park Historical Complex

Martin Lynch Drive, Rhinelander, WI | Website

Pioneer Park Historical Complex is an open-air complex of seven museums and historical buildings. My first memory of this place was from when I was around 8-years old standing in front of the ginormous “Big Wheels.” Today, it is still a great place to bring the family to learn more about Rhinelander’s history and the industries that put it on the map.

Above photo: Pioneer Park Historical Complex

The Logging Museum, housed in an authentic camp building, is the most prominent of the museums in the complex. The collection highlights the early years of Rhinelander as a logging town and its role in the lumber and paper industries.

The Rhinelander Railroad Museum features a narrow-gauge locomotive and an authentic Soo Line Depot, originally located in downtown Rhinelander. Inside the basement, there is a model railroad that demonstrates the three rail lines that operated in- and out- of Rhinelander.

Other museums include Reds Sawmill, Rhinelander Rural Schoolhouse, Civilian Conservation Corps, Rhinelander Fire Equipment, Dukes Outboard Motor and Boat Museum, and a Hodag exhibit. Be sure to check opening hours prior to your visit. The complex is only open during the summer months, and it is usually closed on Mondays and holidays.

Above photos: Pioneer Park Historical Complex

John Heisman’s Grave

650 Washington Street | Website

John Heisman, the legendary football coach and player — and whom the coveted Heisman Trophy is named after — was not from Rhinelander, but his wife was. When he died of pneumonia in 1936, his wife brought him to Rhinelander and buried him at Forest Home Cemetery. His grave is a flat stone in Block 3, on the corner of cemetery streets 1st Avenue and C Street. Look for the Donaldson headstone, and you’ll be in the right place. John is buried on the left, and his love Edith is on the right.

Forest Home Cemetery is also where many of my family members are buried. It is an unassuming, quiet place for regular people, with this extraordinary exception — the original Heisman himself.

Above photos: John Heisman’s Grave

Hodag Dome

863 Hodag Dome Drive, Rhinelander, WI | Website

There is a saying, “Rhinelander has two seasons: July and Winter.” Because this is devastatingly true, the School District of Rhinelander built the largest air-supported high school dome in the nation to house their year-round athletic programs. The Hodag Dome includes 128,000 square feet of space with a football field, tennis and pickleball courts, batting cages, golf simulators, and more.

Membership is required for regular use of the facility. However, guest passes are available for visitors who would like to visit during Community Walking Hours, Open Dome, or Open Turf times.  Cost of a one day guest pass is $5/person for all guests over age 5.

The Hodag Store

538 Lincoln St, Rhinelander, WI | Website

To show your school spirit, or simply to take a piece of Northwoods lore home with you, a visit to The Hodag Store is a must. This converted service station offers t-shirts, bumper stickers, and other merch featuring the mythological beast. You cannot miss the bright green building or their delivery truck painted with a huge mural of the Hodag.

Above photos: The Hodag Store

Boating

One of the best ways to enjoy the outdoors in Rhinelander is by paddling or cruising on the Wisconsin River Flowage, also known as Boom Lake. If you don’t have your own vessel, there are local outfitters who can hook you up with a rental. Pontoon boats and outboard motor boats are a great way to cover some distance, but I’m personally a fan of old fashioned rowing where one can best experience the peacefulness of the channels and wild rice beds.

• Mel’s Sporting Goods Kayak Rentals | Website
• Shoeder’s RV and Marine Boat Rentals | Website

Above photo: Kayaking the Wisconsin River

Lucky for me, my uncle was able to hook us up with kayaks and a ride to the Bridge Road Landing boat launch. From there all we had to do was, literally, go-with-the-flow. The river provides the opportunity to see all types of water foul, eagles, muskrat, mink, and whatever else shows up at the water’s edge. Pelican Lake and Hanson Lake are also great paddling locations.

Above photos: Kayaking the Wisconsin River

Parks & Natural Areas

Of course, the Northwoods are known for exactly that — the woods. There are numerous parklands and hiking trails in the area for your daily dose of nature-filled exercise. Below are a few popular spots to check out:

• Holmboe Conifer Forest State Natural Area: This short 1-mile loop trail follows Pelican Lake though old-growth pine trees. It is mostly used by residents of a nearby apartment complex, but it accessible to the public behind the Riverview Hall facility at 903 Boyce Drive. The Shepard Park Dog Park is also close by.
• Thunder Lake Wildlife Conservation Area: This is a 130 acre preserve that is open for mutli-recreactional purposes, and is especially well-known for wildlife viewing.
• Hodag Park: This park is perhaps best known for the site of the annual Hodag Fest, a music festival held every summer. It offers family-friendly activities including a children’s play area, baseball diamonds, a public beach area on Boom Lake, and several picnic pavillions.
• Hanson Lake Trailhead: A bit on the rugged side, this hiking trail follows the shoreline of Hanson Lake with some areas that go into the woods. The trees include pine, hemlock, aspen, birch, and fir. Bring yer bug spray.

Above photos: Flora and fauna in Rhinelander

Where to eat

As far as regional specialties go, keep an eye out for fresh cheese curds (i.e., squeaky cheese), bratwurst, frozen custard, and fish from the lakes. Wisconsin is also known for its craft beer. If you really want to go for it, try some cheese beer soup!

Other links and travel ideas

How to get to Rhinelander: The most direct way to get to Rhinelander is to fly into Oneido County Airport (RHI). Alternatively, fly into Central Wisconsin Airport (CWA) or Madison (MAD) and drive up. You’ll want to rent a car. There really isn’t much public transportation to speak of.

Rainy Day Activities: When the weather doesn’t cooperate, Wisconsin overall has one of the highest number of bars per capita so you will surely find a place to cozy up. For something more family-friendly, there is open skate at Rhinelander Ice Arena, bowling at Nick’s Hodag Lanes, and the latest box office hits at Rouman Cinema.

Daytrip to Lake Superior: The greatest of the Great Lakes is less than 2-hours away. It is a wonderful drive in the fall when the leaves are changing color. We went up to Saxon Harbor by the Michigan border and had the best day beach combing:)

Above photos: Saxon Harbor, Lake Superior

More information: For additional information and resources about planning your visit to Rhinelander, visit the Explore Rhinelander website.

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