Montreal

A Long Weekend Visiting the French-Canadian Gem of Montreal

It is hard to think of Canada as an international destination, being our friendly neighbor to the north. Yet, while in Montreal, it truly feels like you have left the continent. French-Canadian culture, old world charms, and art deco architecture are beautifully blended in a unique crossroad of Europe and America.

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While we are on the topic of Montreal’s merits, consider the convenience of not even having to cross an ocean to experience amazing architectural gems, a thriving food scene, and richly curated museums. Just set your Google Flight tracker to monitor for a great fare and jump on an opportunity for a long weekend get-away.

My husband and I visited Montreal during the month of July in an effort to escape the Texas summer heat. We loved it so much that we went back shortly after to visit Quebec City, as well. If you are considering a trip, don’t hesitate for a second. It is easy to fill your days exploring a broad range of activities. Hopefully you will fall in love with Montreal as much as we did.

Our four-day itinerary was as follows:

• Day 1: Arrival, Botanical Gardens, Olympic Park, L’International des Feux Loto-Québec
• Day 2: Notre-Dame Bascilica, Old Montreal, Old Port, Downtown Montreal
• Day 3: Mount Royal Park
• Day 4: L’Oratoire St. Joseph Mont Royal, Departure

Where to stay in Montreal

Normally, I would adamantly recommend staying in the historic center since that is where there is a concentration of attractions. However, in Montreal there are attractions throughout the downtown area, which is within walking distance and/or public transportation to Old Montreal. So, no need to stress over the location too much!

We stayed at Hotel Place d’Armes in the heart of Old Montreal opposite the Notre-Dame Basilica. We chose this hotel because of the history and architecture of the building, but the location was also really ideal for us. Once we arrived, we also discovered the gorgeous Brasserie 701 bar & restaurant where we stopped for pre-dinner drinks each evening.

Above photo: Hotel Place d’Armes

Montreal Historical Landmarks and Attractions

Montreal Botanical Gardens

Soon after arriving in the afternoon and getting settled in our hotel, we headed over to the Montreal Botanical Gardens. The Botanical Gardens is just one of five “spaces for life” you can visit in Montreal. The others include the Biodome, Biosphere, Insectarium, and Planitarium. If you’d like to visit all five, you can purchase a special “passport” ticket that allows you to access all of them.

Above photo: The Japanese Garden of the Montreal Botanical Garden

Not all botanical gardens are created equal, and this is one of the best. It boasts a collection of 20,000+ taxa, 800 of which are on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List of Threatened Species. There are numerous greenhouses, three cultural gardens, and other themed gardens. It is absolutely huge and a wonderful place to walk.

Above photos: Montreal Botanical Garden

Montreal Olympic Park

Montreal Olympic Park is the complex that was built for 1976 Summer Olympics. It includes the tallest inclined tower in the world (currently closed for renovations; re-opening Fall 2024), the stadium (used for events), skatepark, remote workspaces, family play areas, recreational swimming, and a sports centre. It is really just a big giant playground and an opportunity to see the facilities that were built to host the best athletes in the world.

Above photo: Montreal Olympic Park

L’International des Feux Loto-Québec

If you visit Montreal during the summer months, you may be in luck to see a pyrotechnic performance as part of the International Fireworks Competition. Each Thursday, a different country is scheduled to set off their artistic display over the La Ronde amusement park. Tickets for La Ronde can be purchased here. However, the fireworks can also be seen at various spots along the St. Lawrence River. We watched from The Clock Tower in Old Port:)

Old Montreal

The neighborhood of Old Montreal is a compact set of streets near the Saint Lawrence River waterfront with buildings dating back to the 17th century. The Parisian vibes here are strong. Cobblestone streets are lined with charming cafes and shops, along with the architectural heritage of Montreal.

The main street running parallel to the river is the partially pedestrianized Saint-Paul Street. Here you will find all kinds of souvenir shops, boutiques, artists’ galleries, bars, and restaurants. I enjoyed wandering in and out these places, but equally enjoyed admiring the architecture and colorful window displays from the outside.

Above photos: Old Montreal

Above photos: Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel in Old Montreal

Château Ramezay

Château Ramezay is the historical home of French aristocrat Claude de Ramezay. It was built in the early 1700s, but later changed hands and even briefly served as headquarters to the American Revolutionary Army. For the most part, the chateau was the residence or office of various political figures and administrations until, ultimately is was saved from destruction and preserved as a museum. The history museum, national portrait gallery and public library have been open since the early 1900s. Most recently, it was deemed one of the 1,001 Sites to See in your Lifetime.

The museum is a must-see while in Montreal. The building itself if a treasure to behold. Inside, there are over 30,000 objects that have been collected and displayed so visitors can immerse themselves in the spirit of a bygone era.

The Museum is open everyday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. It is easily accessible as part of a walking tour around Old Montreal or a five-minute walk from the Champ-de-Mars metro station.

Above photos: Château Ramezay

Above photos: Château Ramezay Garden

Place d’Armes

Place d’Armes is a historic square dating to the 17th century. There are several statues and public arts pieces here, as well as a number of historically significant buildings that surround the square. At the center of Place d’Armes is a monument of Paul de Chomedy, the founder of Montreal.

Above photo: Paul de Chomedy statue at the center of Place d’Armes with the Bank of Montréal building behind (to the right)

Notable buildings surrounding Place d’Armes include Vieux Séminaire (the oldest building in Montreal), the New York Life Building (the city’s first skyscraper), and the Bank of Montréal building (the oldest banking institution in Canada).

Above photo:  Vieux Séminaire de Saint-Sulpice (Saint-Sulpice Seminary)

Above photos: New York Life Insurance Building (also known as the Quebec Bank Building)

Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal

Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal is an iconic building located on Place d’Armes in Old Montreal. You absolutely don’t want to miss seeing this masterpiece of Gothic Revival architecture.

Above photos: Notre-Dame Bascilica of Montreal

The interior of the church is stunning! It is known for its intricate details and the series of stained glass windows by Québec artist, Jean-Baptiste Lagacé chronicling the history of the parish .

The church can be visited throughout the day. I always prefer to visit churches during daylight hours to fully enjoy the stained glass windows. However, in the evening, there is also a multimedia experience projected onto the nave of the Basilica. It sounds amazing! There are also organ concerts performed throughout the year. All these events and ticket information are published on the official website here.

Above photos: Interior details of Notre-Dame Bascilica of Montreal

Hotel de Ville (City Hall)

As expected, City Hall is the is the seat of local government in Montreal. It was built between 1872 and 1878, then was destroyed by fire, then re-built around 1922. It sits in the center of Old Montreal and is especially beautiful at night when it is illuminated.

The building is really stately and impressive both inside and out. It is normally possible to see a few of the rooms inside on a guided tour, but it is currently closed due to restoration work. Updates on future opening dates can be found here.

Above photo: Montreal City Hall

Vieux Port (Old Port)

Old Port is a promenade that runs along the waterfront of the St. Lawrence River, just in front of Old Montreal. The area was once a commercial wharf, but was transformed into a public park with bicycle paths, exhibition halls, and a variety of family activities.

There is all kinds of stuff going on year-round, especially during the warm weather months. At the port’s farthest end, there is an old clock tower, La Tour de l’Horloge. You can enter the tower and climb the 192 steps leading past the exposed clockworks to observation decks overlooking the St. Lawrence River.

Above photo: Old Port Montreal

Downtown Montreal

Downtown Montreal is a busy area with all walks of life and activities. It is worth taking part of a day to walk through the streets and parks to discover the mix of old and new architecture and sites. We happened to be here during the “Just for Laughs” festival, an annual indoor and outdoor comedy festival with shows and street arts located in Place des Festivals and surrounding streets.

You never know what might be going on while you are visiting. Be sure to check the Go Montreal website for a calendar and listing of events taking place in and around the city.

Above photos: Montreal Stock Exchange building (left) and the Just for Laughs outdoor festival near Place des Festivals (right)

Above photos: A flower stand (left) and the Edward VII Monument in Phillips Square (right)

St. Patrick’s Basilica

Saint Patrick’s Basilica is a Roman Catholic minor basilica that was built for the Irish immigrant population in Montreal. It is located in the heart of downtown Montreal. Its spire can be seen from everywhere. So, just look up and point your toes in that direction!

Above photo: St. Patrick’s Basilica

The interior of the church is striking and interesting. Both French fleur de lys and Irish shamrocks are carved into the ornamentations. The church is known for its ten bells called “St. Patrick’s Chimes.”

Above photos: St. Patrick’s Basilica

Christ Church Cathedral

Christ Church Cathedral is an Anglican Gothic Revival cathedral just a few blocks away from St. Patrick’s Bascilica. We ended up here by chance, just wandering through the streets. We were surprised to find yet another historic gem in the midst of modern office buildings. The stained glass windows behind the altar are especially beautiful.

Above photos: Christ Church Cathedral

Mount Royal Park

Mount Royal is an incredible park centrally located in Montreal, just outside of the main downtown area. We arrived here near the Park Avenue entrance, opposite Jeanne-Mance Park. The first thing that stopped us was the imposing Monument to Sir George-Étienne Cartier, a bronze & granite tribute to the 19th-century statesman. It is a beautiful piece of history where you can also relax and pull out your Mount Royal Map as you get ready to ascend:)

Above photos: Monument to Sir George-Étienne Cartier

If you gaze up towards top of the Mount Royal tree line, keep your eye out for the Mount Royal Cross. The cross is 98 feet high and can be seen from miles away when it is lit up at night. It was erected to replace the wooden cross that was carried to the summit by Montreal’s founder, Maisonneuve, 1643 by virtue of a promise if the colony survived flooding.

Above photo: Mount Royal Cross

On to the Mount! Fun fact: Mount Royal Park shares the same landscape architect as New York’s Central Park.

We walked up to the Kondiaronk terrace (also referenced as the Camilien-Houde Belvedere lookout), which offeres sweeping views of Montreal. It’s a bit of a hike to get here, but so well worth it!

Above photos: Belvedere Lookout and Kondiaronk Terrace

Above photos: Mount Royal Park

L’Oratoire St. Joseph Mont Royal

L’Oratoire St. Joseph was pretty high up on every “things to do in Montreal” list that we consulted. So, we figured it must be worth our while. It is a Catholic shrine dedicated to St. Joseph and one of the world’s most visited pilgrimage sites.

The church started out as a small chapel and evolved into one of Montréal’s most iconic landmarks. The church as it stands now was completed in 1967. So, not that old.

As we stood below the church on Queen Mary Road and looked up the hill, it appears truly impressive. Once we made our way up to the mezzanine and terrace, the look-back to the city views was the best part of our visit, albeit a little foggy that morning.

Above photos: L’Oratoire St. Joseph Mont Royal Terrace & Mezzanine

The interior of the church is grand and dome is really spectacular. That being said, I’m more of an “old world architecture” person. So, as far a churches go, this one wouldn’t make my Top 10 list. I’m also not keen on shrines.

Off to the side of the church is the beautiful Garden of the Way of the Cross. We walked around the path that includes really nice sculptures and is planted with trees, shrubs, and flowers. If you decide to visit the church, don’t miss this wonderful little spot.

Above photos: Garden of the Way of the Cross at L’Oratoire St. Joseph Mont Royal

Where to eat in Montreal

Brasserie 701

This classic French brasserie-style restaurant is located in Hotel Place d’Armes where we were staying. So, it sort of because our default spot for pre-dinner drinks and late night bites. The interior is decorated with vaulted ceilings, sparkly chandeliers and swanky neo-classic architecture. The menu is more contemporary. C’est tres chic! Make reservations here.

Modavie

Modavie is another French brassserie eatery with two floors of jazzy decor and vintage ambiance. We had dinner here on our first night in Montreal. Great choice! The menu is extensive, but we heard it was well-known for lamb and other smoked meats. The carnivores we are…. we went for it. The wine and cocktail menu was also really, really good! Make reservations here.

Above photos: First night in Montreal at Bistro Modavie

Montreal Poutine

I’m a fan of french fries anyways. I could have eaten poutine for every meal. There are a lot of great spots for poutine. We went to Montreal Poutine for lunch during our day in Old Montreal. Oh, just so good!

Above photos: Montreal Poutine

Bar a Beurre

The name of this sweet little bakery literally translates to Butter Bar. Bar a Beurre is known for Italian butter cookies (sandwich cookies that look like balls), but their other patisserie and desserts in the window caught my attention. We grabbed a couple “to go” cupcakes for our afternoon walk in Old Montreal.

Above photo: Bar a Beurre Patisserie

Restaurant Jérôme Ferrer – Europea

The culinary highlight of our visit to Montreal was Europea. I would classify this restaurant as a food experience because every course felt like another stop on a journey. I did not take any photos except a very blurry picture of my husband opening a box containing his dessert at the end of our meal. We had an extraordinary evening here. I cannot recommend it highly enough! Make reservations here.

Above photo: Restaurant Jérôme Ferrer Europea

St-Viateur Bagel & Cafe

Who would have thunk that Montreal would have the most incredible bagel scene? There are a couple rival bagel shops to choose from: St-Viateur and Fairmount. We went to St-Viateur Bagel & Café Mont-Royal. I got the traditional salmon & cream cheese and it was dee-licious!

Above photos: St-Viateur Bagel & Cafe

A few more notes on Montreal

• French is the official language in province of Quebec and the city of Montreal. About 70% of its residents speak French. However, English is also commonly spoken, especially amongst those in the hospitality and tourism industries. You likely won’t have any problems due to a language barrier, but it would be nice to learn a few phrases before you go.
• The local currency is the Canadian Dollar. American currency is accepted in most establishments at variable exchange rates.
• The best time of year to visit Montreal weather-wise is Spring or Autumn. That being said, we visited Montreal in July and Quebec City in December and completely enjoyed both!
• Renting a car is unnecessary unless you plan on venturing outside of the city. Montreal is very walkable and has a great public transportation system. A taxi or Uber can get to/from the airport.

Read about our trip to charming Quebec City at Christmas here.